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I glassed the hull, epoxied the skeg to the hull with some large fillets, then installed the thru-bolts with sealant. So if the skeg ever needs replacing (I doubt it will), I can easily remove the...

You probably need a drawing like this to design your motor attachment ... or purchase the motor beforehand I suppose. Not sure which motor you are going to buy, but here are the dimensions for the...

Yeah I think the well on Peanut is a little low, possibly drowning the motor. I plan to use a long shaft motor.

The ventilation plate of a long shaft motor is usually 22". The ventilation plate...

Par, thanks for the tips about transom height. I am also trying to decide what height to make a cutout (or if I want a cutout at all). That's a good point that most standard recommendations apply...

If you choose to not build a full-width motor well (like shown in my TS14 plans here), you probably need some sort of transom brace like Larks boat has. Some people may not realize, but that motor...

Glad to hear.

What do you mean by this? Are you precoating the surfaces with epoxy and letting it cure before you glue them together? I read that this isn't a good idea. Sure, you are preventing a glue starved...

Looking good. Can you make the pics slightly larger? (You are uploading to Flicker or similar site first and "Copying Image Location" into the post using the...

I scarfed a stack of ply planks using a belt sander and hand plane. For this thin ply, use at least 9:1. I did 12:1. I temporarily clamped them to the boat and drew a straight line across the...

I'm making my keel and caps out of hard wood and using a metal strip as a skid (screwed and bedded). If the skeg ever needs replacing, I can just remove the bolts, saw through the glue joint, clean...

haha I did see it in the plans ... I just couldn't figure out what the deuce it was and when/how to use it.

Was I supposed to have a nifty block like that on the end of the stem to hold it straight??? Opps. Oh well, I just had to check it like 50 times while gluing it. It's straight now thankfully. I...

Haha ... I often get ignored in restaurants as well. Maybe they are more attentive to the obese majority because they are better customers.

I just noticed on my Hartley plans that in one view it...

Looking nice. As those fasteners are permanent, you could dip them in epoxy before screwing them in, then covered the sunken heads in thickened epoxy. The epoxy on the threads helps them go in...

I read the System3 bottle again yesterday evening ... it says 2:1 or 100:50 by volume and 100:44 by weight. I suppose people get less confused by parts per 100 compared to parts per 25 when...

Most epoxy spec sheets list the ratio by volume and weight, since the densities of the resin and hardener are different.

My epoxy ratio (System3) is 2:1 by volume and 100:44 (I think) by weight,...

Thanks for the post about the skeg, Par. I'll use fasteners on this piece, but I was just trying to decide whether to permanently glue it or not. I suppose if I did epoxy it in place and it later...

Hey hereselmo1 ... do you realize that if I took a break from boat building and dug a hole in my backyard straight through the center of the earth, I would end up pretty close to your house?! Crazy....

I think there is a myth being told to new boat builders that I'm trying to dispel or at least challenge a little:

If you use epoxy, the joint will DEFINITELY be stronger than the...

Yeah, I was talking about frame #4 because that was where I got a chance to do some "destructive testing" on an epoxy-only joint. When I easily popped this joint apart, it made me frustrated that...

And I too like MIKs suggestion of having a captive pin for the center plate pivot and I hear it works well ... as long as you are careful that you don't split the caselogs when screwing in the...

What? I'm not talking about screwing frame #4. We are talking about using screws in the other frames. (Right, frame #4 is holding on by a tiny little piece of epoxy and I was worried it would...

Has anyone seen a Hartley TS16 MKII? Supposedly the MKII has a more sloping cabin front for a more modern look, but the older Hartley design is still the standard.

I'm just curious to see what...

Thanks for the welcome. You're right. After the structure is complete, there is much less force on each joint (compared to me hammering on a cantilevered piece). In normal day sailing and use,...

By the way, great conversation guys. You all seem like a knowledgeable bunch ... I look forward to asking you all sorts of questions. :U

I've never heard of this design rule-of-thumb, but it doesn't sound unreasonable for thin plywood joints. However, the keelson-to-frame and chine-to-frame joints in this design do not meet this...

True, times are changing and new designs are coming out that use less (or no?) fasteners. But these boats are very different designs. The Hartley frame is designed to use screws. I see some...

Creating a fillet is just making the surface area of the joint slightly larger. The joint is slightly strengthened since there are a few more wood splinters holding it together, but this does not...

I assumed you were building a Hartley TS16 or similar plywood-on-frame design. Is that correct?

Edit: Yep, I just connected the dots to your TS16 build thread. Looking real nice.

Hi ... I'm a new member ... first post. I finally found where all the other Hartley builders hang out. Excellent.

I'm currently building a TS14. I'm not an expert boat builder, but I am a...