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Sounds like good advice. The only issue I see is that the trade ones are typically more powerful and robust units - which means they're heavier and bulkier - something that may cause issues for home...

I'm more likely to use the router for creating joints (lap, finger, dovetail, mortise as well as rabbets for shelves etc) - probably not so much edge shaping work. I like the idea of creating 'v'...

I'm looking at the M363 (green 'Weekender') router too - trying to decide if it will suit my needs - which sound similar to yours. Sounds like the 'green' coloured Makitas are for DIY, and the blue...

Oh - I assumed that the blade would always be parallel to the base plate edges - I guess not, on cheaper saws. If they were not parallel, I can imagine one would be faced with all sorts of difficulty...

The link was supposed to be an animated smiley - won't try that again.

Hi Malb

Thanks for the reply. I'm leaning towards a Makita 5008MG which should be a good enough saw for reasonable accurate cuts, I would hope. Of course the jig, alignment and my skill comes into...

Hey Gunn

Thanks for the info - and the pdfs which do seem to confirm that an adapter kit can be purchased, to allow routers to run on the track. I might hold off buying a circular saw for a bit -...

Hi Andy

Thanks very much for that - a very helpful link. I wish my search had turned that up.

One thing - I've heard people talk about needing a "cast alloy' base plate on the circular saw -...

Thanks very much for all the helpful answers. It seems that the plunge saw with rail is perhaps a little too specialized for me at present, and that I'd be better going with a good quality circular...

Hello

I'm a very keen amateur wood-worker who is about to invest in a circular saw of some description. After hours of research, I've become fairly confused! I'd like a saw that can both rip and...