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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brisbane, Qld
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    947

    Default Copper ferrule - coating?

    Hi folks,

    I normally buy tools handled, so it's only now that I'm making my first handle (for a big bowl gouge). Just attached the ferrule (a 25mm copper capillary coupling from bunnings), and it's pretty enough that I kind of want to keep it that way... Any suggestions for good ways to keep it shiny?

    Considering taping off the nearby wood and giving it a quick spray of cheap clear aerosol varnish I already have sitting around the shop...

    Cheers,

    Danny

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Nth of Newcastle
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    77
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    811

    Default

    . Brasso then keep the oxygen out. I've used shellac, I've used Wax. Both work. Phil.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,814

    Default

    Provided you are not handling it too much and it does not sit in direct sunlight this works really well
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/white-kn...pcoat_p1564184
    It says it is suitable for door knobs etc but I found it cannot take too much handling.

    A more specific and probably a better product is this
    http://www.wattyl.net.au/nztechnical...etal/WM326.pdf
    This is what
    I bought my last can from Bunnings but they no longer stock it.
    I have seen it at Wattyl and Solver Stores and also Mitre10.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Gold Coast Australia
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    67
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    519

    Default

    Bob is the Wattyl product a spray can item or needs a spray gun?

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,814

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by george mavridis View Post
    Bob is the Wattyl product a spray can item or needs a spray gun?
    I see Stratco have it as well
    https://www.stratco.com.au/home/prod...?product=7618&

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    186

    Default

    Incralac is the way to got. It is formulated to work on brass and copper and is harder than the White Night lacquer. It also comes in a spray can.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brisbane, Qld
    Posts
    947

    Default

    Thanks folks! Now, do I spend the time to find the wattyl or just go down to the big green shed...

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    2,327

    Default

    I use scrap copper tubing which is assembled to the handle while the handle is still on the lathe. I shine up the tubing with 220 and then 400 grit and finish it with tung oil applied along with the rest of the handle. I apply the tung oil with a rag while the handle is turning in the lathe, let dry a bit and buff with an old athletic sock, repeat one or two times. I have done the same with galvanized electrical metallic tubing and plain steel.

    The shine has lasted a couple of years. I don't worry too much about how pretty it is after I start using it.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,903

    Default

    I pretty much do like Paul does. If the handle is getting oil so is the ferrule. If wax then so is the ferrule. Just do the ferrule last so as not to get metal staining on the wood.
    Regards
    John

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Burwood NSW
    Age
    82
    Posts
    1,247

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    Don't waste your time and money . These are working tools .
    Ted

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brisbane, Qld
    Posts
    947

    Default

    Thanks folks!

    As it turns out I got some epoxy squeeze out around the ferrule which I couldn't be bothered cleaning up - so the chisel isn't the aesthetic masterpiece I was thinking of, and I ended up just waxing the ferrule.

    Still, should be a good handle:



    Only wish I had a convenient source of 30mm ferrules!

    Cheers,

    Danny

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