Inscribing your work

[Scott]

I recently saw some turned pieces with the makers name inscribed on the bottom of their work. The inscription looked as though it was done in black ink. Does anyone do this and if they do, how?

Thanks in advance - Scott.

[Toymaker Len]

We just use a black artline fibre pen about .5mm. Seems to work fine under any finish. People like to know who made the piece and what kind of wood it is.Heres a sample. The stamp is burnt in but that is another story.

[dai sensei]

I use an engraver backfilled with pigment or a burner, depending on the colour, type of the wood and value of piece

[Scott]

Thanks Len & Neil, I've just invested in an artline pen as Len has suggested; thought it would be something as simple as that. As a matter of interest Neil, where did you get your engraver from?

-Scott.

[dai sensei]

I have a dremmel and a high rev air tool for piercing that can also be used. I also have a range of different ball style engraving bits. The burner also works well, again using various ball burning bits.

[Grommett]

I use a "Sharpie" extremely fine permanent marker. Get them at Safeways or the newsagent.

[Grant Mack]

Neil,
Would you please tell me what your high rev air tool is i.e. die grinder or dentist drill and what size compressor you use to run it?
I have been trying to source info on dentist handpieces but keep coming up against a brick wall.
Regards
Grant

[dai sensei]

It is a small air powered engraving tool, like a small pen, that connects to the compressor airline. I got it from "Crazy Sales" quite a while back for I think around $20. It runs at 10x speed of Dremmel. Unfortunately they don't sell them anymore. A Dremmel or similar will do the job though of engraving, I use the other for piecing and engraving, as it a light-weight and simple to hold.

I have a decent sized air compressor permanently mounted under my bench and piped around my workshop. I also have a smaller one I move around yard and when travelling with mobile lathe.

Hope this helps.

[issatree]

Hi sjt,
I sign everything I make, within reason, & I use a Black Artline 200 - .04.
You can buy a 4 pack from O/Works for $9.29. If you keep the cap on when not in use you can get 6 - 8 months out on one.
You must use the pen on raw timber, & if you use EEE it will take the writing off, as it is an abrasive polish ?.
It will not work very well over your polish. I have yet to find any finish that will remove the writing.
So on my work, I would write : Bill Jones, Geelong, Australia. 1152011. Cypress.
I write the 1st. 4 words, then the date Nos. are run into one another, & print the wood.
I put Australia, because a lot of my work goes overseas. Quite proud of that.
Just thought, the writing does not go on Jarrah to good, so if I'm using it, I either Burn or Engrave my writing. I use a WEN Engraver, that I picked up at a Market somewhere for $4. You almost need the ear muffs on, as it is quite loud, when in use, & it pays to have a practice on a piece of waste timber.

[Ed Reiss]

Hi SJT...it's always good to add your name and the wood species, but you might want to not put a date. 3-4 seasons down the road and your trying like hell to sell that one piece from 4 years ago...cute Bonnie Jo has her eye on the piece, but then Bruno see's the date and says "Bonnie Jo, this wanker hasn't sold this in 4 years time...must be something wrong with it!"

Bye, bye sale

[kcam]

It is a small air powered engraving tool, like a small pen, that connects to the compressor airline. I got it from "Crazy Sales" quite a while back for I think around $20. .

Good to see another fan of "Crazy Sales" I have the same engraving tool that I use for piercing to supplement a Dremel using dentist bits, very effective and a lot cheaper than a dentist tool itself.....on the engraving of my work I use a Pyrography pen,listing my name and timber and sometimes a motif

[munruben]

Hi SJT...it's always good to add your name and the wood species, but you might want to not put a date. 3-4 seasons down the road and your trying like hell to sell that one piece from 4 years ago...cute Bonnie Jo has her eye on the piece, but then Bruno see's the date and says "Bonnie Jo, this wanker hasn't sold this in 4 years time...must be something wrong with it!"

Bye, bye sale

Good point about the date.You could always use a code for your own records if you needed to know the date of a particular piece you made.

[robo hippy]

I tried the Sharpies for a while, but they tended to bleed, especially with the Walnut oil finish that I use. I found some art type 'Archival India Ink' type pens that worked better. I do have to let them dry over night. They will penetrate hard/cured finishes, but don't like the soft (walnut oil) finished after the finish has been applied, until it is totally dry. I did fine some 'Paint Pens' that wrote in a heavier line, and came in a couple of colors for the darker woods.

robo hippy

[bassmansimon]

Hi sjt,
You must use the pen on raw timber, & if you use EEE it will take the writing off, as it is an abrasive polish

sorry to bring back up an old thread, but if using EEE, could you use the pen afterwards? I understand that it can't go before EEE, but what about after?

I'm starting to do a few bowls which ONLY get finished with EEE - no "real" finish on the top. Any suggestions for how to inscribe/sign this work?

[_fly_]

Good point about the date.You could always use a code for your own records if you needed to know the date of a particular piece you made.

Another way to mark a date is use the day of the year 001-365 and for the year count from something special, your own birthday, a kids birthday etc. so then you get numbers like 13452
134th day of year (today) and I'm 52 now.
Others think its a item number or cat no or who cares but you'll know.
Peter