bolting down a lathe

[smiife]

hi guys ,
this might seem a dumb question but .........i will ask
anyway,what would be the best way to anchor my lathe to
the concrete floor in my shed,i tried some dyna bolts on the
weekend but were not very successful,ruined 2 in the process
and the other 2 were not real good,any tips on what to use!!!!!!!!
cheers smiife

[nz_carver]

I suggest Ramset AnkaScrew 12mmx90mm

[DJ’s Timber]

Just out of interest, what type and size did you use?

[Paul39]

I have had good luck in sound concrete with the Red Head brand, see:

http://imagethumbnails.milo.com/024/...54_trimmed.jpg

You could also drill the hole, blow out dust, and epoxy in allthread. That would take care of not so good concrete.

The fastener stores here have all sorts of solutions at all sorts of prices.

Depending on the lathe and stand, put it on leveling screws and build a shelf low down and put on weight, dead auto batteries, buckets of sand or gravel, concrete blocks, engine block, etc.

[artme]

I have had great success bolting other things to concrete using Chemiweld.

This is an Epoxy type compound available at Bunnies and other hardware stores.

Use a rotary hammer drill to do your holes, make 'em deep and use threaded rod.

Blow ALL dust from the holes before setting the threaded rod.

[smiife]

hi guys,
thanks for your suggestions,
i did use 10mm x100mm dyna bolts,and like i said 2 of them stuffed up!!!!!!!!
so i might go back to the drawing board and start again, i might try the chemical ones

next question..............HOW DO I GET THE STUFFED ONES OUT
easier said than done i would imagine
cheers smiife

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

To get the old ones out, first you need to get the sleeves out. If you put them in at the correct depth - and they're not one of the ones that has two sleeves (the actual anchor sleeve plus one which is basically a loooong washer) - then a pair of needle nose pliers should do the job.

Otherwise, you may need to either drill down - or chip out - next to the hole so you can use a screwdriver or similar probe to slowly lever out the sleeve(s). In this case, you'd be better off drilling new holes; you can chemset a thread into the old holes but you'd use double the amount and it's not really designed as a gap filler.

If drilling new holes, I'd leave the buggered bolts in place (maybe add a dab of chemset around the top to glue 'em in) and cut off anything above ground height with an angle grinder. Much easier.

G'luck with whatever you do!

[smiife]

To get the old ones out, first you need to get the sleeves out. If you put them in at the correct depth - and they're not one of the ones that has two sleeves (the actual anchor sleeve plus one which is basically a loooong washer) - then a pair of needle nose pliers should do the job.

Otherwise, you may need to either drill down - or chip out - next to the hole so you can use a screwdriver or similar probe to slowly lever out the sleeve(s). In this case, you'd be better off drilling new holes; you can chemset a thread into the old holes but you'd use double the amount and it's not really designed as a gap filler.

If drilling new holes, I'd leave the buggered bolts in place (maybe add a dab of chemset around the top to glue 'em in) and cut off anything above ground height with an angle grinder. Much easier.

G'luck with whatever you do!

thanks for the quick reply skew
i will give that a go on the weekend
cheers smiife

[Paul39]

hi guys,
thanks for your suggestions,
i did use 10mm x100mm dyna bolts,and like i said 2 of them stuffed up!!!!!!!!
so i might go back to the drawing board and start again, i might try the chemical ones

next question..............HOW DO I GET THE STUFFED ONES OUT
easier said than done i would imagine
cheers smiife

If you have drilled close to the bottom of your concrete slab, take a suitable drift and drive the bad bolts through.

If you have an inch or so of bolt sticking out a few good whacks with a 3 pound hammer should drive them down, then follow with the drift.

[smiife]

If you have drilled close to the bottom of your concrete slab, take a suitable drift and drive the bad bolts through.

If you have an inch or so of bolt sticking out a few good whacks with a 3 pound hammer should drive them down, then follow with the drift.

thanks for the suggestion paul i will give that a go too!!
cheers smiife

[artme]

If you have drilled close to the bottom of your concrete slab, take a suitable drift and drive the bad bolts through.

If you have an inch or so of bolt sticking out a few good whacks with a 3 pound hammer should drive them down, then follow with the drift.

There is little that bests the persuasive power of a 3lb hammer!!

10lbs is better!!!

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

The only problem with a big hammer is it automatically precludes reusing the holes for chemset & thread.

And if the conc is - for some odd reason - thick enough that the bolt won't punch through or there's rebar in the way it'll also mushroom the end of the dynabolt, making it near impossible to get it out any other way short of of chipping out a large enough hole to get an angle-grinder in. (DAMHIKT. )

Ackershully, I favour a 5lb hammer... it's normally how I'd do it too. Quicker than getting the old bolt out, if you don't want to re-use the hole. But I thought I'd give the more reliable method rather than the normally quicker, simpler method - with a whole list of caveats.

[artme]

Been down that track Skew! Results were not pretty!

[Phily]

Thanks for your post Smiife, makes me feel better about all the dyno's I've managed to stuff up in the past

On my current lathe I placed some heavy grade rubber strips under the feet of the lathe to assist with vibration absorbtion and "trapped" each leg with a steel plate (each with slight cupping) dyno'd into the concrete. I'm pretty happy with the end result as it has eliminated both movement and vibration through the machine/concrete.
Cheers
Phily

[dennisk]

Up here in the great white north, we generally have heat lines running through our floors if they are concrete. I build a subbase out of timber or plywood and silicone it to the floor and lag screw to that. No holes in the floor and if you want to relocate you can peel it up with a wrecking bar or two. The silicone doesnt rip up the concrete as a glue would and it holds like a damn. Used it on the the old Wadkin and when I built an addition to the shop for the new Titan used it again. Nothing moves and if you need to relocate no problems and no holes in your slabs or anchor bolts to cut off.