Wood stabilisation/hardening spalted wood

[WaggaSteve]

I have a large piece of very spalted wood (type of wood unknown) that I have turned into a ball shape approx 12" in diameter. I spent two days soaking it with white glue diluted 50.50 with water but still have splits/punky bits every time I try to finish it (its still out of round but getting closer, though has some nasty looking cracks). Any suggestions to stabilise / harden to say what I think is a nice piece
TIA
Steve

[hughie]

12" dia makes it a real challenge, ordinarily I would use CA but 12" might take a a couple of litres

Here you go this should solve your problem
How To Thin Polyester Resin With Acetone | Made Man

I have have thinned it out but not in the quantity you will need. The only down side is the thinned resin will not be as strong. But for what you want it should be fine.

If it needs a lot of it , or its hard to get the penetration wrap it tight in a heavy plastic bag and just pour it in the top.


OK if you want a very clear infill use 'glass coat' from Bunnies its crystal clear and runs and penetrates very well especially if you have thinned it out some. Its expensive about $50 per litre but works real well and sets real slow 4-6 hours or so. But if want to colour it, then any resin will do, I use spirit stain from Bunnies for mine.

[QC Inspector]

A product called Cactus Juice is what you need. You submerge the wood in the juice and then apply a vacuum. When it stops bubbling the vacuum is released. Then you bake it at 200F to harden it. It is used a lot for pen blanks and usually roughed bowls. I'll add that you'll have to bring it in from the USA but if you get ahold of Curtis he can tell you if anyone distributes it in Australia or can put you in touch with others getting some to make a bigger order.

[dai sensei]

I stabilise timber using Cactus Juice with vacuum all the time and it is the best product to use. BUT, like all stabilisers used under vacuum, the timber must be dry and I mean 0% MC, and can only be achieved in an oven.

If your timber is cracking that implies it is not dry to me, so to get it dry enough to stabilise, it will crack to start with that will need filling by casting.

Watered down PVA only forms a skin on the outside and at best only penetrates a mm or so. There is a wood hardener you can buy from your hardware, very expensive, that you paint on in layers slowly soaking in to harden it but again it only penetrates so far.