Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: MC1100 question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,301

    Default MC1100 question

    I am considering buying an MC1100, and have found 3 brands (Leda, Sherwood, HAFCO) plus the HAFCO WL-20, which supposedly offers a slightly bigger swing, and is cheaper. I notice that the first three have finned motors, while the WL-20 does not. Is this difference likely to be of any significance?
    Also, can someone please enlighten me as to what an indexing system does?
    Thank you for any assistance.
    Chris

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,891

    Default

    I dont think the fins or lack of matters. I would assume that the motor is designed to do its job.
    Indexing is handy to have. It lets you lock the work piece in a number of positions. Usually 12 or 24 sometimes more. Great if you want to mark out a clock face for instance.
    If you want to do larger things like bowls then the horsepower is good to have. My lathe is 1hp and can stall at times on large bowls. I have managed quite a few over 12 '' but I have to go easy.
    Regards
    John

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,360

    Default

    Orraloon is pretty well on the money.

    The MC1100 type is a good entry level lathe. Because it has become a 'type' covered by many mfrs the quality of fittings can vary quite a bit but, in general, not enough to make any real difference to an entry level turner.

    My first MC900 had the same motor as the Hafco and served me well for many years although it did go through a few starting capacitors.

    One thing I do recommend with all MC-900/1100s is to lay your hands on the actual lathe and slide the and tail-stock up until the centres of the drive- and tail-spurs 'kiss.' They should be nicely aligned, if not, look at another lathe instead otherwise you will regret it eventually.

    On the MC-100 also move the headstock along to different positions and repeat this test.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    2,327

    Default

    I agree with Skew above. It is best to at the very least play with any lathe you contemplate buying in a showroom or at the sellers shed. Better if you can actually turn something.

    My rather expensive when new Hegner has a cam tightener on the tailstock that when loose enough to slide easily on the bed will not stay in position, and when tight enough to stay in position will not slide easily on the bed. The 20 some year old Woodfast tailstock and tool rest with the same system slide easily and lock down firmly.

    I bought both used, the Hegner before I knew much about lathes and was moving up from a free 40 year old Delta with a bent sheet steel bed. The Hegner has been good but is a frustration every time I move the tailstock.

    You want to know stuff like the above before you buy it rather than after.
    It might also be good to play with a Vicmarc or equivalent to get a feel for how good machinery operates.

    It could be the Hafco motor without fins is designed for not as hard and / or long term use. Lathe motors are almost always TEFC, totally enclosed fan cooled motors. Enclosed to keep chips and dust out, and a fan on the outside to blow air over the motor to cool it. The fins would get rid of the heat better. If the heat does not get removed, the magic smoke will try to come out and the motor will become disinterested in further toil.

    If you will be doing smaller stuff, spindles, it would not matter. If you were hogging off lots of hard Aussie timber as big as you can get on the lathe for 4 hours at a time, that might overheat the motor. Some motors have a working temperature on the plate. Those with high temp insulation on the wires can be run so hot they will burn you if touched, but not hurt the motor.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    2,327

    Default

    One further thought after looking at photos of the mc100, leda, and WL - 20. I have no confidence in the articulated tool rest as it would be hung out to reach a big bowl. You might talk to someone who makes bowls and uses that tool rest.

    The banjo, tool rest without the extension, bed, and tail stock look fine.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Flinders Shellharbour
    Posts
    5,693

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul39 View Post
    One further thought after looking at photos of the mc100, leda, and WL - 20. I have no confidence in the articulated tool rest as it would be hung out to reach a big bowl. You might talk to someone who makes bowls and uses that tool rest.

    The banjo, tool rest without the extension, bed, and tail stock look fine.
    Yup its pretty well useless, had to make up one of my own.I agree with all thats said above
    ,its a generic lathe that anybody can sell under thier own logo.
    Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso


Similar Threads

  1. MC1100/GMC Clone
    By BernieP in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 14th August 2008, 09:08 PM
  2. mc1100 stand
    By beginner in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 8th February 2007, 02:32 PM
  3. off the MC1100
    By hughie in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 19th August 2006, 10:33 PM
  4. MC1100 - any advice for new toy
    By tonysa in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 26th May 2005, 10:30 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •