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  1. #1
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    Default hollow form ..... oooopppsss

    Hi guys , a very thin wall hollow form.........
    Maybe a bit too thin
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Cheers smiife

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  3. #2
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    Default

    That'll buff right out! [emoji15]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #3
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    Default

    You could always use it as a lamp shade, no one else needs to know it was a oooopppsss, cept us and we won't tell, will we .
    If you're wanting to do thin vessels, something I read somewhere, was to put a light inside to illuminate the thickness. When you get an even glow, you'll know that you have an even thickness.
    Hope this helps.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  5. #4
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    Default

    You now have a beautiful lampshade and jagged edged coin bowl.

  6. #5
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    Default

    If it's any consolation, I saw Phil Irons do the same thing during a demonstration a couple of years back.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiife View Post
    Hi guys , a very thin wall hollow form.........
    Maybe a bit too thin
    Just a thought. I know the Vermec Deep Hollowing tool does internal hollowing but could it also be used externally? Do you like the Vermec tool and do you find it easy to use?

  8. #7
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    Some great ideas there guys
    The vermec hollower is a good tool , but as you see
    It is very easy to go too far
    I have never tried to use it on the outside of a hollow form!
    But i can, t see any reason why you couldn, t.........
    My only comment on the tool is very difficult to reach the shoulder/undercut
    It could do with a more swan neck like end piece , the one
    It comes with isn, t bent enough , thats just my opinion , for what thats worth
    Thanks for your replies.
    Cheers smiife

  9. #8
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    Add a laser light.

    Buy or make your own.



    Sent from my ZTE T84 using Tapatalk
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamBam53 View Post
    If it's any consolation, I saw Phil Irons do the same thing during a demonstration a couple of years back.
    And I have seen Richard Raffan get a dig-in. None of us are exempt. It just happens less frequently with experience... : -- )

    Sent from my ZTE T84 using Tapatalk
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiife View Post
    Some great ideas there guys
    The vermec hollower is a good tool , but as you see
    It is very easy to go too far
    I have never tried to use it on the outside of a hollow form!
    But i can, t see any reason why you couldn, t.........
    My only comment on the tool is very difficult to reach the shoulder/undercut
    It could do with a more swan neck like end piece , the one
    It comes with isn, t bent enough , thats just my opinion , for what thats worth
    Thanks for your replies.
    Thanks Smiife. My Vermec Ultimate Deep Hollower has been sitting in its box for over 12 months waiting for me to give it ago. Today was the day and it was fun. My piece has a diameter of around 120mm and I was wondering what the turning speed would be. On a Youtube video it was stated as around 1100 rpm. However, for the size of the piece it seemed a bit slow so I revved it up to about 1600rpm and it seemed to improve the cutting. What speed do you use?

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeilS View Post
    Add a laser light.

    Buy or make your own.



    Sent from my ZTE T84 using Tapatalk
    Hi neils, I was thinking about that ,where did you buy them ?
    but I still have trouble getting In to the shoulder/undercut .?



    Quote Originally Posted by Kidbee View Post
    Thanks Smiife. My Vermec Ultimate Deep Hollower has been sitting in its box for over 12 months waiting for me to give it ago. Today was the day and it was fun. My piece has a diameter of around 120mm and I was wondering what the turning speed would be. On a Youtube video it was stated as around 1100 rpm. However, for the size of the piece it seemed a bit slow so I revved it up to about 1600rpm and it seemed to improve the cutting. What speed do you use?

    Hi kidbee , I can, t remember what the speed was , but I don, t think
    It was that fast , I may have to rev It up a bit !
    Glad to here you had fun , thats the main thing to enjoy It
    Also on another note , I have seen on you-tube the tool rest/gate
    Used both ways ,,,, the gate closest to the work and also the ring
    closest , which way do you use yours ?
    Cheers smiife

  13. #12
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    Hi kidbee , I can, t remember what the speed was , but I don, t think
    It was that fast , I may have to rev It up a bit !
    Glad to here you had fun , thats the main thing to enjoy It
    Also on another note , I have seen on you-tube the tool rest/gate
    Used both ways ,,,, the gate closest to the work and also the ring
    closest , which way do you use yours ?[/QUOTE]

    I used mine with the ring closest to the item being turned. That is the way Vermec have it in their instruction manual. However, when I had a second look at Brenden Stemp's Youturn video he was using it the opposite way with the gate closest to the bowl. I am not an engineer but would have thought that the former way is the best. My unit has sat in its box since April, 2016 and today was the first time I have used it. I am making an iPhone acoustic speaker for my grandson's 13th birthday.
    The other matter is, where does the side handle go. I used it on the left side and set it at the same angle as the cutter when the cutter was horizontal if you know what I mean. So when I have the cutter approaching the wood surface the handle is tilted downwards 30 to 45 degrees.

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiife View Post
    Hi neils, I was thinking about that ,where did you buy them ?
    I made my own. You can buy a laser pointer with rechargeable battery for under $25 on eBay. Best to buy from Oz seller to ensure power is under 1mW (legal requirement?). Just take care to avoid beam going into eyes as it may cause damage to retina, but more problematic would be temporary flash blindness...

    https://www.scientificamerican.com/a...-laser-damage/

    To avoid any risk only turn on once secured in place on hollowing rig. I went with green light, but I don't think it makes much difference which colour you go with. A pen size style is less weight out on the end of the arm to hold steady.

    Quote Originally Posted by smiife View Post
    but I still have trouble getting In to the shoulder/undercut .?
    With small opening the Vermec swans neck will be limited in how far you can undercut. As long as the undercut is more than a finger length who is going to know how thin the section is beyond that point, you can't see that area by peering in.

    On larger opening a combination of swan neck and straight bar will get to any visible areas. Practising on more open forms will develop your technique for when you move on to more closed forms where you are working completely blind.

    I only do the occasion closed form, but Hughie on this forum does a lot of them and he may have more advice.




    Sent from my ZTE T84 using Tapatalk
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kidbee View Post
    Hi kidbee , I can, t remember what the speed was , but I don, t think
    It was that fast , I may have to rev It up a bit !
    Glad to here you had fun , thats the main thing to enjoy It
    Also on another note , I have seen on you-tube the tool rest/gate
    Used both ways ,,,, the gate closest to the work and also the ring
    closest , which way do you use yours ?
    I used mine with the ring closest to the item being turned. That is the way Vermec have it in their instruction manual. However, when I had a second look at Brenden Stemp's Youturn video he was using it the opposite way with the gate closest to the bowl. I am not an engineer but would have thought that the former way is the best. My unit has sat in its box since April, 2016 and today was the first time I have used it. I am making an iPhone acoustic speaker for my grandson's 13th birthday.
    The other matter is, where does the side handle go. I used it on the left side and set it at the same angle as the cutter when the cutter was horizontal if you know what I mean. So when I have the cutter approaching the wood surface the handle is tilted downwards 30 to 45 degrees.[/QUOTE]

    Hi kidbee , regards to the handle I use IT the same , on the left , same angle as the cutter , when turning on the opposite side you know where the cutter is !

    Quote Originally Posted by NeilS View Post
    I made my own. You can buy a laser pointer with rechargeable battery for under $25 on eBay. Best to buy from Oz seller to ensure power is under 1mW (legal requirement?). Just take care to avoid beam going into eyes as it may cause damage to retina, but more problematic would be temporary flash blindness...

    https://www.scientificamerican.com/a...-laser-damage/

    To avoid any risk only turn on once secured in place on hollowing rig. I went with green light, but I don't think it makes much difference which colour you go with. A pen size style is less weight out on the end of the arm to hold steady.



    With small opening the Vermec swans neck will be limited in how far you can undercut. As long as the undercut is more than a finger length who is going to know how thin the section is beyond that point, you can't see that area by peering in.

    On larger opening a combination of swan neck and straight bar will get to any visible areas. Practising on more open forms will develop your technique for when you move on to more closed forms where you are working completely blind.

    I only do the occasion closed form, but Hughie on this forum does a lot of them and he may have more advice.




    Sent from my ZTE T84 using Tapatalk
    Hi neil, thanks for your advice much appreciated , might try a laser ,
    And also practice a bit more , this piece was only a prototype made from some wet willow I was just given, only cut a few weeks ago !
    Cheers smiife

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