Large Diameter Router Bit

[bob.jager]

I wish to use an 89mm dia router bit on my Triton table with my Triton Router to manufacture ficture frame slips.

Unfortunately the clear dust collector cover has an internal diameter of less than 89mm - this will mean I will have to remove it and design something to accomodate the larger bit. Before I re-invent the wheel, has anyone attempted this before? or has anyone any ideas?

Bob

[DarrylF]

I gotta believe that this has got to be an accident waiting to happen. I'd have serious doubts about trying to use a bit that large in the best of router tables.

I'm no expert - but I'd definitely think it would be worth talking to the manufactuers/importers of the bit you want to use.

I've had one accident with a router table - kickback when widening a slot and my finger clipped the bit. Fully healed now, but a very sobering experience.

[RETIRED]

Gooday.

Have to agree with Daryl. A bit that big is meant to be used in a spindle moulder.

The edge speed would be phenomenal.

Most router manufacturers reccommend only bits up to 25mm. We have an overhead router and even they say you should not exceed 50mm.

------------------
Ian () Robertson
"We do good turns every day"

P.S. and that has a 75 mm shaft.

[This message has been edited by (edited 31 August 2002).]

[bob.jager]

Re the router bit:

I would prefer to use a vertical Raised Panel Bit, but I have yet to find the right cove profile that meets my specific needs.

The bit I am interested in is the CMT Raised Panel Bit, Profile D (1/2" shank) 890.507.11. The recommended speed for this bit is 10,000 RPM which my Triton Router can handle without any problems. This speed corresponds to a tip speed of approximately 55 feet per second, or about 38 miles per hour, which I understand shouldn't be a problem when the router is mounted in a stable router table.

Have I missed something?

[bob.jager]

Re the router bit:

I acknowledge your concerns. I would prefer to use a vertical Raised Panel Bit, but I have yet to find the right cove profile that meets my specific needs.

The bit I am interested in is the CMT Raised Panel Bit, Profile D (1/2" shank) 890.507.11. The recommended speed for this bit is 10,000 RPM which my Triton Router can handle without any problems. This speed corresponds to a tip speed of approximately 55 feet per second, or about 38 miles per hour, which I understand shouldn't be a problem when the router is mounted in a stable router table.

Have I missed something?

[DarrylF]

Take a look at the manual that came with the router as well. The big problem is not so much the tip speed - a variable speed router will deal with that. I would think it's the lateral forces generated, and the effect that would have both on the router (gotta wonder what it would do to the bearings), and the router base/table mount.

Can you cut the same profile using multiple smaller bits over several passes?

If you really want to do it then make sure you have plenty of clearance for the bit, and that the table is as solid as a rock, Also make very sure that the table mountings & base of the router are solid - locktite or locknuts etc.

Maybe you can take the bit and timber to a joinery shop and have them run it for you? Personally I'd do that anyway - too much pain and too much danger for me. You might want to pay a visit to a few and see if perhaps they have profiles for their spindle moulders to achieve the same thing - pay them to do the work and it may actually be cheaper than buying the bit.

For a guard, get hold of some 5mm+ perspex, drill two slots, and bend into an L shape with a heat gun. If the bit came out while running, the guard will not protect you - it's just there to stop your fingers getting near the bit. If the rear section of the fence is too narrow, then you'll need to build a new fence to suit. Use feather boards and stay the hell away from the bit.

The first time you run it, stand behind the fence, turn it on and leave it to run for a while - without running any timber. If it sounds wrong, or there's too much vibration, give it up now. Turn it off and check the router & mountings - if anything is loose, give it up. Run very light passes. If it sounds wrong or there's too much vibration, give it up.

Think about how you would turn it off in a hurry if it did start to vibrate badly etc. If something did start to go wrong (assuming you had any time to react), I would want to get the hell away from it first, and turn it off remotely.

Run one length then check everything again. After the first run I'd check the bit - make sure the collet & nut are still as tight as they were when you started. There is a very real danger that the collet will just not hold a bit that size & deal with the forces involved. I'd not like to be around if it came loose while running.

I'm sure you know this stuff already - just be extremely careful if you're going to do it is all I wanted to say really.

I'm glad I'm not going to be in the same workshop personally

[craigb]

Interesting replies. I knew there must have been a good reason that the largest diameter insert that Triton supply is 50 mm.
It has made me wonder though (as a new router table owner) whether it's possible to make raised panel doors with the table as the specs for the "kitchen cupboard" bit sets that I've seen seem to indicate that the bit diameters execced 50mm.

Craig

[DarrylF]

As much as the Triton does it's assigned job well, it is not and cannot be a professional standard piece of equipment. A pressed metal table top cannot have the strength of cast iron, and power tools designed for hand held use are just not up to table mounted use beyond basic applications.

(preparing to be flamed )

You can do a lot with a Triton - including seriously injure yourself. Like any other piece of equipment, use it for something it wasn't intended for and you're tempting fate.

Most hand held routers have base openings around 50-60mm, obviously because they're not designed to handle a larger bit. The raised panel bits from CMT etc need larger than this. Obviously the pre-requisite is a router table designed to handle a bit that size - not many of them. The only ones I've seen are basically small spindle moulders and dedicated router tables - they don't use hand held routers bolted upside down. They have very solid mountings and very solid bearings.

[bob.jager]

Thanks for your replies and concerns. I take it all onboard. I'll have to locate a suitable vertical raised panel bit and then build a jig to support the work piece. I'll let you know how I go.

Bob

[bob.jager]

Does anyone know who distributes Amana or Bosch router bits on the mainland - I can't seem to find a source in Tassie. Both of these companies manufacture a vertical raised panel bit that may suffice.

Bob

[Dazzza]

Try Here for CMT and Torquata Router bits
http://www.timbecon.com.au/index.asp

And request a catologe

[Bob Jager]

Good news, I recently received an AMANA vertical raised panel cove bit from the states that solves all of my problems.

(Freight cost me an arm and a leg though)

[barrysumpter]

Hi DarrylF,

I thought I had better reply just to clarify a point.

It's my opinion that its the lack of safety precautions being followed by the users that gets people hurt. Either themselves and/or an innocent bystander.

As you you've witten, It doesn't matter what type of euipment you're using.

Triton have an increadable amount of safety attachments and documented procedures to keep us safe.

All we have to do is think and practice safety first and formost.

Be safe, be healthy, be happy.



------------------
Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
Proud Tritoneer
Triton Woodworkers Club Holmesglen