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27th October 2005, 02:47 AM #1New Member
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Simple way to inkjet print on wood
If you need to print on wood, or virtually any other surface that will fit through your inkjet printer, inkAID is the product for you.
I am the Australian distributor of the inkAID products and sample packs are available.
Should you require any further details, please email and I will be in touch.
Regards,
Darren
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27th October 2005 02:47 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th October 2005, 06:55 AM #2
Sorry, but my inkjet wont take 240 x 19 mm pine
NormellEvery day above ground is a good day
Still drinking & driving, but not at the same time
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27th October 2005, 09:05 PM #3
And mine simply refuses to accept the 8in x 1in Jarrah and I had had plans of printing a nice pic or nameplate on the 12in x 3in keel Im building but buggared if I can get that to go through the printer either... whodhadthunkit eh?
Believe me there IS life beyond marriage!!! Relax breathe and smile learn to laugh again from the heart so it reaches the eyes!!
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30th October 2005, 08:00 PM #4
Darn, and I have been using my fax machine all this time!
If you can do it - Do it! If you can't do it - Try it!
Do both well!
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30th October 2005, 11:21 PM #5
Heres a free way to do it without buying something
If you need to get a pattern on your timber, print a sheet in your printer and iron over it.The pattern may need to be reversed first if its non symetrical. eg printing will come out backwards. Yes it has limitations.
Saw it on the net somewhere.
You may begin the smart #### comments below.
At least I did not try to sell ya somthin!
Grahame
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31st October 2005, 07:30 AM #6
I saw that too and thought it was only applicable to photocopiers, toner not ink.
I haven't tried it with a printer.Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
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31st October 2005, 09:16 AM #7
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31st October 2005, 10:16 AM #8Senior Member
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thats correct. that method only works if its been printed on a laser printer/copier
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31st October 2005, 11:10 AM #9
Glue it on and sand it off.
p.t.c
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31st October 2005, 12:28 PM #10
Whale Oil Beef Hooked (say it with a Scots accent)
I'm flat out gettin a piece of A4 through me printer :eek:
Yes I have tried transfers and plans on thin/see-through paper but find the dimensional detail gets distorted - NBG
Just as well I have the ability to see the perspectives in real life and work to them. Mind you a thicknesser would be handy but I make do with the jointer and the table/band sawes.Perhaps it is better to be irresponsible and right, than to be responsible and wrong.
Winston Churchill
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3rd November 2005, 10:30 AM #11Originally Posted by ptc
Why is thie thread on the Festool Forum??
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11th December 2005, 03:19 PM #12
Large format inkjet
Vutek manufacture a flat bed large format inkjet printer - I have actually seen it print onto chequerboard aluminium
Some specs:
Maximum print size of 1830 wide by 3660 in length and 50mm in thickness, on rigid materials.
Ideal for superior photo quality applications with fine text.
Print directly onto rigid boards avoiding the time consuming and costly process of lamination.
Ability to print directly onto rigid materials including glass, acrylics, stainless steel and textured products up to 50mm in thickness.
There's been one in Brisbane for a year or so - so it aint that new...People make mistakes...
That's why they put erasers on the end of pencils
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24th December 2005, 07:06 PM #13New Member
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this thread is full of joeks qiute frankly
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24th December 2005, 07:07 PM #14Originally Posted by tha carpentaIf at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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25th December 2005, 03:13 AM #15
Here's a method I've tried (and had reasonable success with) for both laserjet & bubblejet images printed on plain A3 & A4 paper.
I do a quick one-coat wipe of danish oil or PU, wait for it to dry and then apply a light misting of acetone from one of those disposable household spray bottles, before a quick application (face-down, of course!) of the paper. A light squeegee over the top (I use the side of a cigarette packet) and removal of the paper leaves me with enough marking to work the wood in normal circumstances.
I have found that taking too long or applying too much acetone is detrimental to the end result.
Then again, I've had equal success by simply printing the template to paper and gluing the paper (printed side up) with PVA directly to the wood, but as this requires more finishing (soak & scrape) I only do it with intricate templates where the first method isn't sufficient. [shrug]
As yet I haven't found the need to use "special" xfer papers for any job I've done. Even T-shirt printing is possible w/out these papers provided you know a few tricks and are using suitable inks.
- Andy Mc
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