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Thread: Magic??? Wands

  1. #1
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    Question Magic??? Wands

    Hi all
    I have been turning now for a couple of years but I have mostly turned bowls and hollow forms so I limited skills turning between centres.

    Recently an acquaintance asked me to turn some magic wands for her business. (I told her that I could turn some wands, but magic???)

    The wands need to be about 40 cm long and quite thin. (About 10-12mm at the handle end and tapering to a point.) I have turned several and the results are acceptable.

    My question is Oh Wizards of Woodwork, how do I stop the wood from bowing as it turns in the lathe? I have been supporting the back of the work with my free hand as I cut but I still tend to get some "ridges" and have to sand more than I like.:mad:

    I would appreciate any advice or incantations that you think would help.
    Thanks
    Wayne.

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  3. #2
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    You can build (or buy) a support for thin spindle turning. They are not complex and there should be plenty of posts on the matter. I have a book by Richard Raffan that shows a home-made one and I am sure that most woodturning supply places would have a commercial one.

    Cam

  4. #3
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    have a look here, it will give you an idea of what is required, you can the scale it to suit your needs.

    steady rest pdf file
    I try and do new things twice.. the first time to see if I can do it.. the second time to see if I like it
    Kev

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Blanch
    Hi all
    I have been turning now for a couple of years but I have mostly turned bowls and hollow forms so I limited skills turning between centres.

    Recently an acquaintance asked me to turn some magic wands for her business. (I told her that I could turn some wands, but magic???)

    The wands need to be about 40 cm long and quite thin. (About 10-12mm at the handle end and tapering to a point.) I have turned several and the results are acceptable.

    My question is Oh Wizards of Woodwork, how do I stop the wood from bowing as it turns in the lathe? I have been supporting the back of the work with my free hand as I cut but I still tend to get some "ridges" and have to sand more than I like.:mad:

    I would appreciate any advice or incantations that you think would help.
    Thanks
    Wayne.
    Turn the wand as fast as you can (lathe speed, that is) before it flys off.

    Back the tail stock off a fraction. Most people over tighten and "bend" the thin stock.

    Use a skew chisel at a very "flat" angle so that you have a larger than normal contact with the timber.

    Keep using you fingers as a "steady". Most steadies don't work real well on thin stuff.

    HTH.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by
    Turn the wand as fast as you can (lathe speed, that is) before it flys off.

    Back the tail stock off a fraction. Most people over tighten and "bend" the thin stock.

    Use a skew chisel at a very "flat" angle so that you have a larger than normal contact with the timber.

    Keep using you fingers as a "steady". Most steadies don't work real well on thin stuff.

    HTH.
    Wayne, that is advice from a genuine expert.

  7. #6
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    Thumbs up Thanks

    Thanks for all the advice gents, you really are the Wizards of Woodturning

  8. #7
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    Red face

    G'day Wayne,
    What said. I've seen a woodturner turn a 40cm. length of wood down to approximately 2mm. using the method described by . The turner in question used a small spindle gouge & worked towards the headstock from the tailstock, turning the piece to size & sanding in stages until he reached the end at the headstock / chuck.
    I hope that this is of some help to you.
    Regards,
    Barry.
    Last edited by Captain Chaos; 22nd February 2006 at 11:56 PM. Reason: Removed unnecessary link. I made a boo-boo.

  9. #8
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    I concur with , however if you still can't control it try the opposite and slow the speed right down. I don't like to do this myself but have resorted to slower speeds when the wood beat me.Grrrrr.
    "What a fabulous race! Barry Sheene's riding his Suzuki as though he's married to it."
    Quote/Murray Walker.

  10. #9
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    is the man with the plan.... I too have had little success with a steady as it seldom keeps up with where you are and has to be adjusted repeatedly.

    Rather than holding my hand against the back side, I hold a pad mad of Scotchbrite pad, (Keeps from burning my hand, Wipes off scratches as it goes, keeps from getting cuts should I slip) I take a piece about 2" wide and 5-6" long (You'll have to convert to Metric as I are a fool at that process) Fold it into a "Y" shape, holding the V of the Y against the piece whilst I hold onto the tail, (does that make sense?) Keep pressure opposite the Skew or Gouge, (If you have a third hand, it would be a good time to use it:eek: )

  11. #10
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    Talking Its Magic

    Hi all,
    Since asking your advice I have turned several wands using the method that you suggested , and the results have been great. I find that I can turn one in about half the time It took before, this is because I hardly have to do any sanding at all and I can safely get a finer (thinner) wand more easily. I love the scotchbrite idea and I will give that a go on the next one I do. The pici (if I have attached it properly) is of the first one I turned using this method. I am making them much finer now. Thanks again for all your help gents.

  12. #11
    ss_11000 is offline You've got to risk it to get the biscuit
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    looking good wayne...
    S T I R L O

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