Glue-drying time

[aabb]

Couple of questions guys-

Titebond glue - should i put glue on both surfaces to be glued, one surface or doesnt it matter. Lable not clear.

With hardwood how long do you leave workin clamp. Titebond says 30mins only ( depending on enviornment). Is this enought I generrally leave for 3-4 hours but this severely delays my work givenlack of clamps ...... What do you think ?

Once out of clamp how long before you would cut on table saw/ sand (machines) ?


Thanks
Albert

[Lignum]

Albert i use titebond 111 and put it on both sides and depending on what is being glued up and the temp i just clamp for five or ten minutes. If its a door frame i just clamp for a few minutes untill the next frame has to go into the clamps then take em out and lean them up againsed a wall. If its a table top i take the clamps of and again lean it up againsed a wall in about twenty minutes. I find people clamp for to long, and if they have doubts do a test and glue something and clamp for three minutes and then try to get it apart. The only time i clamp in excess of six hours is for curved laminations and veneered tops

[Wood Butcher]

I had to make up some panels (150) at work last year from 145x24mm pine 400 long edge glued. I put a bit of Aquadere Exterior on each face, rubbed them together until there was a bit of resistance and stood them on end till the glue dried. No clamps and was machining them that afternoon. 12 months on and no complaints from the customers yet.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I'm with Rowan. I apply & spread Titebond III on one face and then, if possible, lap the joint until it starts to bind. I do clamp 'em for at least half an hour though, overnight if I can.

I've found the joint is usually stromg enough for further machining after half an hour provided the joint was well constructed in the first place (ie. no gap filling! ) and the machining doesn't exert forces that'd seperate the joint. Like, I wouldn't rout a dado through a "fresh" M&T or put it through a thicknesser, but I'd have no worries about running it through a router to round the edges or cutting other mortices/tenons in the same piece of stock.

If possible, I leave joints to set overnight before the more intensive machining jobs.

[brit_in_oz]

Hi
As an adhesive chemist I can tell you that all water based adhesives work by evaporation of water and penetration of the pva molecules into the wood. This takes time - dont push them together and then moves them, hold together and clamp the longer the better otherwise you get a worse bond

I'm with Rowan. I apply & spread Titebond III on one face and then, if possible, lap the joint until it starts to bind. I do clamp 'em for at least half an hour though, overnight if I can.

I've found the joint is usually stromg enough for further machining after half an hour provided the joint was well constructed in the first place (ie. no gap filling! ) and the machining doesn't exert forces that'd seperate the joint. Like, I wouldn't rout a dado through a "fresh" M&T or put it through a thicknesser, but I'd have no worries about running it through a router to round the edges or cutting other mortices/tenons in the same piece of stock.

If possible, I leave joints to set overnight before the more intensive machining jobs.

[echnidna]

There was a question I wanted to ask a chemist

[Wood Butcher]

Hi
As an adhesive chemist I can tell you that all water based adhesives work by evaporation of water and penetration of the pva molecules into the wood. This takes time - dont push them together and then moves them, hold together and clamp the longer the better otherwise you get a worse bond

You do know that rubbing the joint together creates a vacumn effectively pulling the two components together. If done properly it works fantastically!!

[Bodgy]

You do know that rubbing the joint together creates a vacumn effectively pulling the two components together. If done properly it works fantastically!!

Absolutely!

If you have properly jointed the adjacent edges, slide them against each other and whammo, they cling, cuddle and adhere, even with the glue seconds out the tube.

Adhesive chemist? Are you on a sticky wicket?

[Miltzy]

as for applying to both surfaces, phooeey. put enough on to get a smidge of squeeze out. The next question is.........??????

To wipe (wet rag when glue is wet)

To scrape (scrape of glue when dry)

:confused: :confused: :confused:

[Lignum]

Im with Butch & Bodge. On one hand we have an expert chemist and the other seasoned woodies who know by experience what works best. Ive been rubbing joins and lightly clamping only for a few minutes for years and havnt had any problems with failure. And i never wet rag it to get squeeze out off. Its way to messy later when it dries and you need to much clean up with a scraper or sandpaper so the final finish is flawless. I just wait till it gets a hard skin and lightly chisel off.