Spinning wheels

[Wood worrier]

No, not on the car! SWMBO is hankering to have a go at spinning her own wool and wants me to make her a wheel. Any advice, guidance or pointers appreciated.

[bsrlee]

Get a decent brand name wheel, not some bodgy POS that is either worn out or was knocked together by some ignorant clown & never had a chance of working. I was taught to spin by a friend, both drop spindle and wheel - she used an Ashford (? or Ashwood or Ash~something) a New Zealand made wheel - very good & reliable. They export them all over the world & the wheels come in kit & complete forms - I'd get it assembled, then I couldn't stuff it up during assembly

They also make a 'spinner's chair' in kit form which could be a future present if she finds she likes spinning - along with a herd of 'Jacob's Fleece' sheep and some acres to run them on.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Has she specified any particular type? Like a Castle, Upright or Saxony? Or is she just starting and would be happy with "what everyone else is using." FWIW, Saxony's are what most people think of when they say "spinning wheel."

Somewhere around here I've a lot of dox on the working details for a wheel, things like ratio charts for bobbin & flier, etc., so that it'll work and not just make a tangled mess. I'll have to get off my butt and find 'em if you're interested. :eek: I've made a few different types of wheels in the past and, like anything, it's a learning curve. Some basic metal working skills come in very handy. I'm pretty sure I've posted some pics here before... [rummage, rummage] ...OK. Found the post.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...46&postcount=7

I'm ashamed to say, the red-gum one is still in the same condition. I'll finish it one day.

[Wood worrier]

Thanks guys, probably looking at making a Shetland or Saxony, I can deal with basic metalwork but, presumably, there are suppliers out there for some of the nessesary items? We have a few hills here in Scotland so if push comes to sahove I might be tempted into a little light sheep chasing .

Skew ChiDAMN!!, you'r right, I'm not one for slavishly following plans either, stifles the artistic juices (and provides a useful excuse when you get it wrong!). If I can get a handle on the essential principles I can probably take it from there.

[Jenny Brandis]

I have used and taught on the different types of spinning wheels available and must say up front that it is cheaper to buy a kit

Having said that, a few tips for the hand made wheel

weight the drive wheel so that when the spinner stops spinning the wheel returns to the same position each time, thus making it easy to restart the spin simply by appling pressure to the foot peddle, without having to use your hands on the wheel itself. (peddle to be in the upright position when wheel stops turning, ready for a gentle push with the toes to start)

use quality bearings - ones that do not need oiling

install a scotch break so that the spinner can choose to use a single or double drive belt

make the finish shine, smooth to the touch and use nice wood. This is one piece of your work that will be looked at by both females and males with equal discernment.

Use brass for the metal bits - make friends with a metal worker fast

use sliding rings for working the thread along the bobbin - makes for a better wound bobbin.

make plenty of bobbins (7 at least)

Make two thread hooks (one to use and one for spare) and incorporate it into the design (so that the spinner can reach it easy, knows where to return it)

make a matching bobbin holder and niddy noddy - you can go to town on the turnings in the niddy noddy and if you make one that is easy to assemble/disassemble all the better.

Remember:

You are not just making a spinning wheel - you are making a piece of furniture, a portable advertising to your skills (she is bound to take it to a spin-in), a family heirloom .....

[Sprog]

This might help

Understanding-the-Spinning-Wheel-by-Eric-Corran

[Wood worrier]

Jenny, thanks, some good points. However, I seem to have uncovered a whole new world of strange terminology and names! I think I will search the local library. C'ant find the book recommended by Sprog on Amazon and ebay trader won't ship to UK.

[Jenny Brandis]

It has been a while since I saw the book but I do remember a good little book was called "The Care and Feeding of a Spinning Wheel" it covered the maintenance side of the wheels but because that give a lot more details it might be of use to you.

[Jenny Brandis]

These are spinning wheels
http://www.dropspindle.info/wheels.html

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

There's some remarkable wokmanship in those, Jenny.

But I've always had a dislike for the "flier with multiple hooks" arrangement, I've always believed a single adjustable hook on each wing is much more user friendly. I wonder why, with all the work and effort they put into those, they don't have at least one example of the one-hook type?

Wood worrier, I'm still looking for those charts. I know they're here, somewhere, but with the size of my library it's going to take some time. I'll post 'em here when I strike gold.

[Zsteve]

Eric Coran's book is very good, I actually have a copy and would recommend it, unfortunately it looks like they will not send overseas.

I actually built an upright one (before I got Erics Book) from a picture, I also had another to make some masurements of drive ratios so the thing would work ok.

There is alot of good info on the net about them. Its not really that difficult, but like anything mechanical you just need to take care building it.

Regards
Steve

[chrisb691]

We have a few hills here in Scotland so if push comes to sahove I might be tempted into a little light sheep chasing .

Gee!! and I thought they only did that in New Zealand.

[Wood worrier]

These are spinning wheels
http://www.dropspindle.info/wheels.html

Jenny, Wow, very elegant solution.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Well, I said I'd post it when I found it. Better late than never... I guess. In all honesty, I stumbled across it while looking through my shop notes, having forgotten all about this thread. But I remembered as soon as I spotted it.

BOBBIN RATIO CHART

Bobbin to Flyer:

Determined by dividing the diameter of the whorl pulley by the bobbin pulley diameter.

Weight of Yarn : Ratio Guide
Fine = 1.2:1 to 1.7:1
Medium = 2.0:1
Heavy = 2.1:1 to 2.8:1

Bobbin to Great Wheel:

Divide the diameter of the wheel by the bobbin pulley diameter.

Spinner : Ratio Guide

Beginner = 6:1
Intermediate = 10:1 to 12:1
Skilled = 20:1 to 30:1

Example: You're making a spinning wheel with a great wheel diameter of 18" and would like to make it possible for an average spinner to spin medium yarn. It is readiy evident that a 2" bobbin would give you a 9:1 bobbin/wheel ratio, which will suit both very advanced beginners and intermediate spinners. But let's say you want a slightly greater ratio, let's try 1.75" Divide 1.75" into 18" and you would have a bobbin/wheel ratio of a little better than 10:1. Referring to the above chart, for medium yarns on a 1.75" bobbin you would need a 3.5" whorl pulley.

So, you'd build a wheel with 18: great wheel, 1.75" bobbin pulley and 3.5" whorl pulley.

This is why I recommend removable whorls: by being able to change whorls/bobbins the same spinning wheel can accomodate varying yarns and spinners' skills. A further advantage is that full bobbins can be quickly swapped out for empty ones.


I'd like to attribute the above to it's original author but, sadly, I've no idea who it is. I finally found the chart quickly scrawled into my shed notes and I didn't copy the authors' name. Shame on me!

[RETIRED]

Wood Worrier hasn't been on since July.