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  1. #1
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    Default Metalwork question: making your own tools

    Hi folks,

    Wonder if you can help.

    I plan to make a couple of tools from round 5/16" HSS tips - inserted into 5/8" rod (going for that size rod to fit a system handle I already have).

    1. Will mild steel do for the rod?
    2. How deep should the tip be embedded?
    3. Any tips on how to round off the rod where it will meet the tip?

    I have a drill press, 4" angle grinder and of course a bench grinder.

    Thanks in advance,
    Cheers, Ern

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  3. #2
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    Lake Seminole, Georgia USA
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    Default Boring Bar

    Hey Ern,
    Mild steel will work. Mine is drilled
    in the end 5/16" by 1 1/2" deep. Then about 5/8" back, drill and tap for a
    3/16" setscrew. Then drill a 3/16" hole, all the way through
    the bar, at a 15° to 20° angle, but make it to 90° to the setscrew, and cross
    directly under the setscrew. Now you can use a 5/16" bit or a 3/16"
    offset bit, either one secured by the same setscrew. Just bevel the end, and
    maybe grind some angled flats on each side that the 3/16” bit goes through, for
    wood clearance. Hope this is helpful.

    -- Wood Listener--

  4. #3
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    Default

    Thanks Gil. Clever design.

    I'd been thinking just to superglue the bit in the hole, but you get two bit mounts in one.
    Cheers, Ern

  5. #4
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    Default CA Setscrew

    You are welcome, Ern, I know several folks who use CA for a setscrew, works OK, but it is difficult to get the bit out unless you heat up the bar to release the CA bond.

    -- Wood Listener--

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Oz
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    Default

    Gil's got it. So that I don't have to cut the HSS rods to size I drill the hole in the end of the boring bar to be about 1/2" shorter than the cutters over all length.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Default home made tools

    1. Will mild steel do for the rod?
    2. How deep should the tip be embedded?
    3. Any tips on how to round off the rod where it will meet the tip?
    Ern, Gil pretty well has it covered. The only thing different I have done was to drill the set screw/grub screw hole right through. Invariably at some time the tapped hole will be come damaged and you can then use the underside one. Also if you wish it will provide a left hand tip, although I am not so sure how useful that might be.
    A low cost source of HSS tips can be broken taps. They are made form fairly high quality HSS. But if your buying 5/16 round HSS try for, if available M2 or Cobalt variety [not to be confused with actual cobalt steel] . This is as good as, if not better than the Hamlet 2060 top of the range gouges.
    hughie
    Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso


  8. #7
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    Default Boring Bar

    Toolin is right; my end hole is deep enough to use bits that I grind on both ends (just flip them around and keep on boring; another reason not to use a CA setscrew).
    I like Hughie's idea with the setscrew hole, and will be easier to drill out in one stroke).

    -- Wood Listener--

  9. #8
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    Default

    I have a box full of cutting bits left over from my life as a machinist (very short lived life) and every thime I run across them I think I should be able to make a bit holder and use them with the wood lathe. But alas, I can't figure an easy mounting device.

  10. #9
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    Default tool bits

    Quote Originally Posted by Hickory
    I have a box full of cutting bits left over from my life as a machinist (very short lived life) and every time I run across them I think I should be able to make a bit holder and use them with the wood lathe. But alas, I can't figure an easy mounting device.
    Hickory, What sort of tool bits do you have? Tungsten carbide, HSS etc? Your quite welcome to have a look over my efforts.

    I have made quite a few for myself, some work real well, others, well just made it to the bin. If nothing else I can steer you away from my less successful attempts

    hughie
    Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso


  11. #10
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    Default

    I'd be interested Hughie...

    I got myself a heap of metal lathe bits in an auction with this is mind...

    Cam
    <Insert witty remark here>

  12. #11
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    Default

    Thanks for the good oil folks.

    I was thinking of having a different bit in each end of the rod and using my Munro Hollowing tool handle.

    One of the ideas I want to knock off - or rather, respectfully imitate - is the Soren Berger hollowing tool which I saw Guilio M demo on the weekend. Ripped a lot of material out quickly. See http://www.berger.co.nz/showitem.php?item_id=27
    Cheers, Ern

  13. #12
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    Smile berger

    .

    One of the ideas I want to knock off - or rather, respectfully imitate - is the Soren Berger hollowing tool which I saw Guilio M demo on the weekend. Ripped a lot of material out quickly.
    Ern, Its not to difficult, I used a piece of 10mm HHS round bar. The only thing that struck me was that the way its shaped it will have a limited life, its not conducive to many sharpenings.
    Failing that you can buy the tip for I think $30 or so . But then you would miss all the fun of making your own....

    hughie
    Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso


  14. #13
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    Thumbs up home made

    I got myself a heap of metal lathe bits in an auction with this is mind...
    Cameron,

    No worries I will get some pics up. But basically I silver solder the tungsten tips to a piece of 1/2" sq ms bar and then grind the shape. The unfortunate thing is that you can not get real good edge on TC as its has a course grain structure. I have a broken cobalt tap of which I am going to have a go at some time.
    The best edge I have managed on a home made 3/8 or 10mm gouge was out of silver steel. It can be hardened and tempered with a blow torch and quenched in water.
    I reckon a piece of cake to a man of your capabilities.
    It does not have the life of HSS, but the edge is like razor :eek: . On green timber its a real cut throat gouge

    What sort of tips/tool did you pick up?

    hughie
    Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso


  15. #14
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    Emerald, QLD
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hughie
    .
    Ern, Its not to difficult, I used a piece of 10mm HHS round bar. The only thing that struck me was that the way its shaped it will have a limited life, its not conducive to many sharpenings.
    Failing that you can buy the tip for I think $30 or so . But then you would miss all the fun of making your own....

    hughie
    Bugger - another project to add to the ever expanding list!!! That's a new one on me - has anyone tried that Soren Berger thing???:confused::confused::confused:
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  16. #15
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    Default

    To tell you the truth Hughie - I wouldn't have a clue. I haven't actually even really looked at them much since the auction. There were 3 boxes (about the size of smallish cigarette boxes) that were full of the tips. They cost $10. I couldn't say no...

    By silver steel - I assume you mean 01? Very good knife steel that, but you can actually improve its characterisitics by freezing it for a few days.

    Cam
    <Insert witty remark here>

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