Now for the tailstock

[Tiger]

Hey all,

Now that I've corrected the headstock problem, I need to address the problem of taking up the slop in the tailstock. I'm looking for a nice simple solution. I have looked through the forum and there have been suggestions regarding adding some welding etc. I'd rather not do that if I can help it as welding onto cast iron requires skill and special rods.

As the amount of slop is about 1 to 2 mm (and I did try thin brass shims but they weren't sufficient) what have the fellow forum users used to fix this problem permanently?

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I assume you're talking sideways slop between the rails, and not just the nut not taking up sufficiently?

Before you go tweaking it, check the gap of your rails along the entire length of the bed with a good vernier rule/caliper and square. They're usually acceptable but I've seen the occasional poorly machined beds... and when the tailstock is nicely fitted at the far end it jams when being brought up to the headstock.

[Tiger]

Skew, your assumption is correct, sideways slop. I've been too afraid to measure the bed rails in case it's not consistent but I will do this tonight. It doesn't look too bad, but I'll get the digital vernier out.

[Tornatus]

G'day Tiger

Can't say I've had too much of a problem with sideways movement in the tailstock of my MC900, but I sure had problems with both the tailstock and banjo refusing to lock down tightly and securely - the big nut on the bottom plate just would not stay put after being adjusted.

Following a suggestion on this forum, I went to my local specialty fasteners store and bought a couple of Nyloc nuts of the appropriate size, and since fitting those I have had no problems with tightening tailstock & banjo securely. Mind you, that bloody banjo is still a bastard of a design, and I'm still looking for a replacement!

[powderpost]

The first lathe I had was used for the balustrades on Noahs Ark. There was nearly 3/16" side play on the tail stock. The bloke that sold it to me was the original user. I thought this was normal. A retired fitter looked at it and we bored and threaded two holes on either side of the tailstock casting between the ways, 1/2" from either end and screwed in brass studs... tight. The heads were cut off and we carefully filed the stubs to get the centres somewhere near inline. At that stage I was making rolling pins, chair and table legs only, so that perfect alignment wasn't all that critical. That was about 45 years ago. As far as I am aware, that lathe is still working.
Jim

[TTIT]

Mind you, that bloody banjo is still a bastard of a design, and I'm still looking for a replacement!

Tornatus - I agree that the nut loosening is a pain but I chose to leave it as I remove the banjo a fair bit to go outboard and don't want to chase spanners. One problem I did find with the banjo is very easy avoided. When it's giving you grief, check to see if the rest is right down the hole as far as it will go. I found if the rest was allowed to go right to the bottom, it interferes with the locking device. I always lift mine a mm or two and the lock works fine. One day I'll get around to putting a pin through the side so the rest can't drop too far.

Tiger - Powderpost's idea for the slop in the tailstock sounds better than the way I went about it - yet another job for the todo list

[hughie]

Skew, your assumption is correct, sideways slop. I've been too afraid to measure the bed rails in case it's not consistent but I will do this tonight. It doesn't look too bad, but I'll get the digital vernier out

Tiger,
I think you will find like mine MC1100 that the gap and the under side are not machined at all :mad:
The side slop on the tail stock I have not addressed as yet cos I turn mainly bowls .
The major annoyance is the underside is not machined which means that the gripping power of the cam lock to the tool post is not consistent. It locks here but not there, its a case of tightening and re-tightening the nut underneath.Too date I have not sorted this problem out.

hughie

[Tiger]

Phew.. I'm glad it's not just my lathe, was beginning to think I was cursed.

Tiger,
I think you will find like mine MC1100 that the gap and the under side are not machined at all :mad:
The major annoyance is the underside is not machined which means that the gripping power of the cam lock to the tool post is not consistent. It locks here but not there, its a case of tightening and re-tightening the nut underneath.Too date I have not sorted this problem out.

hughie

Hughie, I had suspected something like this because as you say the gripping power varies along the length of the ways.

Mind you, that bloody banjo is still a bastard of a design.
You're right there Tornatus! I'm looking at the lathes at the local woodturning club and seeing how they're constructed to see if my tailstock can be improved.

Powdwerpost, you've got a good idea. I haven't seen that done before, wish you still had the lathe so you could send a picture and I might have a go at it.

[hughie]

Phew.. I'm glad it's not just my lathe, was beginning to think I was cursed.

Nah, just caught out with a el cheapo welcome to the club

Hughie, I had suspected something like this because as you say the gripping power varies along the length of the ways.

Have been looking at various ways to overcome this. Without pulling the whole thing down and carting it off to a machine shop.
Still look on the bright side when we graduate to a real lathe any probs we encounter will be a piece of cake to over come

Mind you, that bloody banjo is still a bastard of a design

.
Well at least the B.... are consistent

hughie