Mounting a router

[pomjohn]

Thanks to all the help I received from you all, I now have a table design in mind.
OK so far, but any suggestions on how to mount the router, obviously I can't just fix it undera 20 or 25mm table as the cutters won't come through far enough.Also what would be the best for the table plywood or MDF ?? Obviously it will have a frame under it but I am concerned about twist over time .
Thanks again John

[ubeaut]

Before I moved my router table was an 8'x4' sheet of MDF the router was mounted in the centre by routing out the underside of the table to fit the router base leaving a 4mm thick section on the top. The covering of the router base was removed and the base was then secured directly to the table using the same screws. A section of the table top along the centre of the front edge about 900mm long and 250mm deep was cut out making it easier to get closer to the router without stretching too far.

A 4"x4" piece of right-angle aluminium about 2 metres long was used as a fence. This had a series of slots cut into the base through which were passed bolts with wing nuts, these were used as adjustment of the fence and to allow easy removal same when needed.

A simple 4x2 frame was made with the back bearer being attached to the wall of the workshop. The top was then hinged to the back bearer so it could be lifted to give easy access to the router for adjustments and cutter changes etc.

This particular table was used to run thousands of metres of moulding and to make hundreds of bread boards, picture frames and lots more. Bloody big but really practical for the uses I had for it.

An easy way to attach your router is to get some 4-5mm clear perspex and make a rectangular base that is about 60mm deeper than your original base and 200 wider, then remove the cover from the baseplate and replace it with the perspex one. This can be set into the top of your bench and makes for easy removal of the router for freehand work. (the perspex size is not all that important but it must be at least 20mm wider all over than the size of the router including the handles. This gives a 20mm edge for the base to sit on when inserted into the table top, Use a jigsaw to cut out a rectangle into the benchtop that is 20mm smaller all round than the perspex base). Keeping this base on all the time also gives you a very stable base for freehand routing. Just make sure to smooth off all the edges of the perspex as it can be razor sharp and a bit bitey if this is not done.

Hope you can understand some of this. I read it back and it seems to make sense to me but I'm a bit dyslexic in the head ant the moment and almost anything makes sense.

Cheers - Neil

[This message has been edited by ubeaut (edited 13 July 2002).]

[pomjohn]

Thanks for the Neil, yup I got the general idea of what you meant, didn't think of perspex but I'll give it a go
Cheers pomjohn

[derekcohen]

John

I agree with Neil's basic idea but I have a few modifications for consideration.

1. Avoid perspex. In my experience 4-5mm thick sheets will flex under the weight of the router (even a small one). The other point to keep in mind is that the thicker the base material the shaller your depth of cut. So thin base material is the idea. I have had very good results using 4-5mm aluminium.

Aluminium is easy to cut.

2. I do like Neil's idea of a permanent 20mm lip around the router base since this will double as a way of suspending the router in the table as well as a more stable base (i.e. broader footprint). Further, if it is done very accurately, a round base can be run along a fence.

3. I would not use a jig saw to cut out the table hole. Instead, use your router! For a circle, you can use circle-cutting base plate (the template is available in most books - essentially it is a compass, with the router at one end of a length of MDF, the length being the radius of the circle you wish to cut. Gad, this is difficult to describe!!). Cut the hole first leaving space for a 20mm lip (into which the router will sit flush with the table top, as Neil describes). You will then use a rebate bit to route out the depth and width of this lip.

I hope this is clear. I'll provide more details if they are needed.

Derek (in Perth)