dovetail jig

[Arthur Alchin]

I bought one of the $99 chinese/taiwanese dovetail jigs and it inclided the router bit which I wasn'nt that happy with therefore I purchased the T-Cut bit with bearing of the same size.
I get frustrated trying to get a good result from either bit and a download of the manual from the american site has'nt helped.

Other than throwing the thing away has anybody got any suggestions on how to fine tune this jig so it makes reasonable dovetails??

Thanking you.

Arthur

[Iain]

Once you have set the depth of the 'top' board which is from the edge of the board to the rear stop, formula is umm, I think, thickness of timber plus half the diameter of the router base, you then need to set the depth of cut.
This can be fiddly and needs to be adjusted in about 1/16" incrememnts until you get a firm fitting joint.
Too tight the tails will splinter, too loose and they will be sloppy.
Once you get it right keep a piece of timber which you have routed and use it as a reference for setting up next time.
Can be reset in a few seconds rather than half an hour or so.
The instructions are bloody awful as I recall and I remember on mine the reference to the cams being superior to screw down clamps 'you will enjoy lever better than screwing'.
Obviously the Taiwanese have a sense of depravity .

I also use a CMT dovetail bit and clean up the 'fluff' around the edges with a very sharp chisel, just falls away and no effort making for a very clean neat joint.
You may need to fine tune the horizontal cut but this is easy and self explanatory.
My only gripe with the jig is 12" board size and I would like a 24unit, but they cost a lot more. I use mine mainly for drawers out of pine sides and whatever timebr front.
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[This message has been edited by Iain (edited 09 August 2002).]

[Little Festo]

Hello Arthur,

I have a article from one of the English "Router" magazine on how to set the jig up. Once set-up it works quite well. Mine does nice tight blind dovetails.

I'll find out the name and date of the publication.

You can email me on [email protected]


Peter
http://homepage.mac.com/peter_farkas/PhotoAlbum2.html



[This message has been edited by (edited 12 August 2002).]

[soundman]

You have now found out why the dovetail jig would be voted the most likely tool to gather dust. There must be thousands of the out there lying idle.
I have been told that a good joint can be had form these things, but I've seen more jigs than joints done by them.

I believe persistance & quite some patience is the required thing.

Hay, be sure to tell when you get your first good joint form the thing.
That would have to be a badge of honour.

cheers

[Corunetes]

If you need a good joint maker look at the Triton Finger jointer........ Not as elegant as dovetails but the equipment works very well indeed!

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Catch ya later
Corunetes

[Arthur Alchin]

squashie (Peter) tried to email "but my letter keeps coming back" It was saying "return to sender, address unknown"

I sent to: [email protected]

Is that write???
take care
Arthur

[Iain]

That are wrong, click on 6the little envelope above the posting for the correct address............

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: http://community.webshots.com/user/iain49

[Little Festo]

Hello Arthur,

Sorry, that should be [email protected] (I play a bit of squash - getting too old but I still persist.)


Peter.

[This message has been edited by (edited 12 August 2002).]

[Eowyn]

I have a $99 dovetail jig. It works fine.
On the most recent dovetailing project I spendt 3 hours trying to get the joint to work, then I realised that I was using the wrong dovetail bit. I got the right bit out of the cubpard, and half an hour later I had a drawer.

The diameter and angle of the bit had to match the comb of the jig.

[Geoff Sims]

I've given up using the dovetail jig, not because it doesn't do a good job, but it's a lot easier (depending on what you're building) to use a Lock Mitre joint. One pass and it's done. Too easy!!!

[luther]

These half-blind tools will make perfect jounts every time if used correctly.
I can set-up & cut perfect joints in about
3-5 min.
The only real secrets is--good stock cut very precisely--clamp firmly & precise--good router technique--and the most important, NEVER remove the bit from the router--(till it needs sharpened)--once you get it correct!!!
1/4" old Sears, Stanleys, etc. are everywhere for a song.(8-10-12$)

[Sawdust Producer]

Try this pdf. version of the manual
http://www.axminster.co.uk/ftp/Perfo...TAIL%20JIG.pdf

[This message has been edited by Sawdust Producer (edited 21 August 2002).]

[Dod]

G'day Geoff,
Once I got my jig setup it works perfectly! BUT, I have never had any luck with my Lock Mitre Bit. Could you give me a bit of advice on how you set this up?
Thank you
Dod

Originally posted by Geoff Sims:
I've given up using the dovetail jig, not because it doesn't do a good job, but it's a lot easier (depending on what you're building) to use a Lock Mitre joint. One pass and it's done. Too easy!!!

[Geoff Sims]

Dod

Trial and error I'm afraid. I set the height of the cutter above the table so that the tongue of the cutter is exactly in the centre of the horizontal workpiece. Then I move the fence in so that it is exactly the thickness of the timber back from where the cutting edge of the bit emerges above the table surface. That generally gets it pretty close. A little minor adjustment gets it right. Make some trial runs with some scrap, and when you get it right, keep those pieces and use them to set the height of the bit and the fence for later projects.

Does that make sense? If not, I'll try some doing some drawings for you.

Originally posted by Dod:
G'day Geoff,
Once I got my jig setup it works perfectly! BUT, I have never had any luck with my Lock Mitre Bit. Could you give me a bit of advice on how you set this up?
Thank you
Dod

[Iain]

I'm lost now, whats a lock mitre?, I know what a mitre is and assume its a variation on this.

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