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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Gosford
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    Cool New (old) Woodfast lathe - motor options please?

    Morning (or evening, as the case may be) Gents.

    I have recently acquired an older ex-school 940m Woodfast lathe as my 1st machine. It is complete with a 3 phase motor which I haven't run yet, and also with a seperate 240v motor, also untested.

    Whilst I have no reason to doubt the actual integrity of either motor, they both look a little worse for wear. Since I am intending a full "makeover" of the machine, and since there seems to be a plethora of nice new motors floating around quite cheaply, I would like to check with the learned assemblage herein re the following:
    • Preferred power output (Kw - Hp)
    • Preferred RPM, assuming a multi pulley is used
    • Any other tips re motor selections
    I will post a few photos of the machine prior to clean-up and see how we go. Actually, why wait - here it is:

    Attachment 36496

    Attachment 36497

    By the way, what is the collett thing (photo 2) which screws on to the face plate thread? I got for a good price (I think ), so don't mind spending a few bucks on it. Our friend Slow6 has given me some advice re centres and drive spurs etc, and I'm pleased to say a nice little package arrived from Timbecon last week which included a 4 piece drive/centre kit.

    Looking forward to some fun over Chrissy. Thanks, and a good one to all.
    Don't Just Do It.... Do It HardenFast!!

    Regards - Wayne

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  3. #2
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    Lets start at the very beginning.... because its a ver nice place to start

    How is it set up to start with?
    What is the standard pully set up, how many speeds and do you know what they are.
    What is the rated motor speed.
    What is the rated power of the motor/s

    Exactly how shabby is the single phase motor you have.

    How keen/ rich are you feeling.

    What do you want to do with the lathe

    How can the lathe be configured.
    Is it a rigid head.
    is there an outboard turning facility.

    what will it swing, inboard/ outboard.

    Then we can make some sensible recomendations.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  4. #3
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    Dec 2005
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    Emerald, QLD
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    I like the hazy romantic effect in your first pic Harden - you will actually come to feel all warm and fuzzy about the lathe after a while
    I can't help you with motor speed without knowing what size pulleys it's got but I'd be looking for a 2HP if you're going to start fresh. IMHO, a bottom speed of 200 - 250rpm would be the go. Any faster creates too much heat when sanding big items.
    Personally, I wouldn't wait for the new motor - just get it spinning and start makin' noodles!!!!

    The gadget in the 2nd pic looks like a 'cup chuck'. Turn a spigot on the end of your blank to fit inside the cup, then tap [belt] the blank in with a mallet.
    Last edited by TTIT; 18th December 2006 at 02:24 PM. Reason: keep missin' bits
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  5. #4
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    Default Woodfast Lathe

    I have one of these and really like it,when it came to me it vibrated a fair bit so I fitted a three phase motor and it runs so smooth if you have three phase that is the way to go.A one hp motor is sufficient and how they came new. Check your electrics,is it wired for single or three phase?
    If you decide to go single phase keep the three phase motor you can use it in conjunction with a variable speed controller in the future.Do not get carried away with new motors vers old the old ones run better and have more iron in them,bearings are cheap to fit.
    The device screwed on the shaft is called a cup chuck it has the timber shaped close to size and tapped in to hold while you turn.
    There are good electrical reasons simplified single phase motors run jerky pushed by their fields while three phase out of phase push is less jerky and three of them,result smoother.
    The original bearings were lubed by open bearings and grease nipples,replace with sealed ones. All the best Peter

  6. #5
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    Default Woodfast Lathe

    Just remembered I had a pic excuse the mess,mine is original in most ways the paint is authentic as well. PeterJust noticed the outboard attah sitting in the middle part of it,I mostly use the lathe with the vaccuum chuck there is a vac cleaner inside the middle part.

  7. #6
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    Apr 2006
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    Hardenfast:

    Well done on your purchase! Of course, we would all love to know how much you paid for it?!

    Regarding motor size: when I purchased my woodfast (new in 1990) I upgraded the standard 1hp motor to 2hp. This is actually as big as would fit in the metal stand (door barely closes). If you have 3ph, beside the benefit of a smoother lathing experience, the motor frame of 3ph motors is smaller than most 1ph units.

    2hp is big enough to comfortably turn a large 350mm octagonal pedestal, 700mm long out of blackwood (that's the biggest lump of wood I have ever put between centres). My Dad's lathe (1hp) struggles to start up such sizes. That said, how often do you intend to put in really big lumps? My vote: 2hp minimum.

    Again, well done on your purchase.
    Warm Regards, Luckyduck

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Gippsland
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    Gee hardenfast,
    That baby looks just brocken in.
    I would be pressing that green button and seeing what it does.
    If it needs a new motor I would go for 2 h p.
    You lucky dog ! One day I too will pick up one of those bargains, hopefully.
    "What a fabulous race! Barry Sheene's riding his Suzuki as though he's married to it."
    Quote/Murray Walker.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Victoria
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    Gday Hard

    good to see the lathe, She's beautiful maaaaaaaaate.

    dont get anything under a horse and a half.. go 2 if you can afford it.

    I was strapped for cash when I got my motor (not getting quite as good a bargain as you did) and settled for a cheap motor from hare and forbes.
    So far it runs well.. its given me six months of semi regular use without a drama... smooth as.

    From memory you may have settle a bit when it comes to footprint size and running speed as single and 3 phase motors are two different kettles of fish.
    I think its something like 1200 rpms in the 3phase and 1400odd in the single phase.. not terrible sacrifice, I havent had any trouble with heat when sanding at the lathes slowest speed.

    the only other thing to get right in the shaft size of the motor so you can use your pulley on it. I just took the old 3 phase motor in with me and asked to borrow the shops verneers.
    expect to drill a couple of new holes in the monting plate under the lathe for the motor, its going to be near enough with the footprint.

    at any rate if you still have the old motor take it with you.

    and buy the best quality you can afford I reckon.


    that beast is gonna pur like a kitten with a bit of tlc

  10. #9
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    Apr 2004
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    As far as your existing motor goes, could this be a candidate for a VSD? They use a 3 phase motor and with it you have virtually unlimited speed range within the speed of the motor, so I understand. I'm in no way an expert on the subject, only the limited information I've read.

    I've read different stories where someone has converted a 3 phase unit with a VSD and once the basic configuration has been worked out, I've heard they work well as a restro-fit. My lathe came with one, and it's something you'll really like, if you ever have the chance to try one out.

    Paul

  11. #10
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    Many thanks Gents - all taken on board. Soundman, I'll have answers to all questions shortly.
    A two horse power minimum seems to be the consensus, even though they were originally fitted with a 1hp.
    Penpal, thanks for the info and the photo. Yours looks in great condition, mine has had many school children playing with it, I think. The bearings appear original, with the grease nipples still there. All seems to be nice and tight. Interesting comments on the 3 phase versus 240v option, by the way.
    By the way, I'm informed by our new friend Mr Woodfast that the machine is "an old 6WL" - not sure whether that's a good thing or bad thing. I'm going for good thing (at $400, anyway).
    Don't Just Do It.... Do It HardenFast!!

    Regards - Wayne

  12. #11
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    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardenfast View Post
    Many thanks Gents - all taken on board. Soundman, I'll have answers to all questions shortly.
    A two horse power minimum seems to be the consensus, even though they were originally fitted with a 1hp.
    Penpal, thanks for the info and the photo. Yours looks in great condition, mine has had many school children playing with it, I think. The bearings appear original, with the grease nipples still there. All seems to be nice and tight. Interesting comments on the 3 phase versus 240v option, by the way.
    By the way, I'm informed by our new friend Mr Woodfast that the machine is "an old 6WL" - not sure whether that's a good thing or bad thing. I'm going for good thing (at $400, anyway).
    Don't over grease the bearings.

    If you put too much in it can slow the machine down because you are almost trying to move a solid mass.

    It also generally creates a mess with grease splatter up the walls.

    Them that turn green bowls get the same effect.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Flinders Shellharbour
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    5,693

    Thumbs up grease and bearings

    Don't over grease the bearings.

    If you put too much in it can slow the machine down because you are almost trying to move a solid mass.
    If the lathe has been idle for along time [years, depending on the location]. The grease will have had a tendency to dry out and harden. If so, it would be a good idea to remove and repack with new grease.Dry grease is as bad as no grease and the motor can stall, at worst burn out.

    A few tips, if you do remove the old grease and wash out the bearings with a degreaser. Spend time to ensure that the bearings are fully impregnated with grease and no degreaser remains other wise theres a potential for bearing failure. :eek:
    The simplest way is to wash the degreaser away with water then dry out the bearing with a low gentle heat. sunshine is good

    Replacement grease; I always go for a molybdenum sulfide based grease. It has many properties most suited to this sort of bearing.It can handle over greasing and not generate heat from this problem ,a common fault. Excessive heat from over packed bearings can cause bearing failure in a matter of hours. :eek:

    Its is also has one of the lowest co-efficient of friction numbers next to teflon.
    http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...seCMSeries.asp

    http://www.school-for-champions.com/...iding_hard.htm

    Its easy to get and recognise, most auto outlets stock it. Its black in colour and has the word molybdenum sulfide plastered over the label.
    As to quantity, around 250-500gms should last you many years.
    Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso


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