what is the best way to dry a freshly turned green bowl ?

[buzzby]

I am a newbie so sorry if this gets asked a lot but have read so many different ways to do this , have tried a few like put in a plastic bag with a small towel changing the towel every 3 to 4 weeks untill the towel comes out dry.

So if there is a better more reliable way to get the green wood to cure without spliting or badly warping I'd like to hear what others do . I do relise diferent woods also effects this process.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Really, there is no "best" way. It all depends on the type of wood, what you have turned and... whether it works for you. (Get any two people using the same technique using the same products on similar pieces of wood and you can bet they'll disagree over whether the results were worth it. )

I like nuking in a microwave, but it doesn't seem to work as well on timbers thinner than around 15mm. That could just be a result of my aging microwave though. For some timbers soaking in a Liquid Dishwashing Detergent solution (aka LDD) or Denatured Alcohol (aka DNA) gives better results. These methods have been discussed fairly heavily on these fora, a search will give you a heap of info. Generally they're talking about treating roughed items (eg. bowls turned to about 1" wall thickness) and turning to finished size afterwards, but they should work on a "finished" item just as well.

They may need a bit of a clean-up after treatment though.

(Oh... and by "finished" I only mean finished turning, not "finished, lacquered and polished." Obvious, I know, but some people make me wonder... )

Another method, not as well covered IMHO, is to simply apply several coats of a good finish over every last millimetre of the surface. Danish Oil, Shellawax, even PolyU. Almost any "normal" finish will do, provided it seals the timber thoroughly. No finish is 100% waterproof, the wood will dry over time but usually slowly enough to prevent splits or excessive movement. (All bowls will oval out to some degree... even ones turned from kiln-dried timber.) The only trick is getting the timber dry enough for the finish to stick in the first place... if it's so green that it's weeping moisture then keep doing what you're doing, or nuke it for a while, or bag it in it's own sawdust, or... until you can apply the first coat.

[buzzby]

A few times I have read about the dishwasing liquid before. I have a fantastic piece of oak burl to turn next
so am hoping to get a few different ideas before I start so thanks for the advise much apreciated skew taa
And yes it was rough turned I ment

[WillyInBris]

Hi Buzzby,

I found this site the other day has some good info and links on different methods

http://www.woodturningonline.com/Tur...es.html#drying

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

A few times I have read about the dishwasing liquid before. I have a fantastic piece of oak burl to turn next
so am hoping to get a few different ideas before I start so thanks for the advise much apreciated skew taa

Oak burl? Personally, I'd either LDD it or leave it be and let time and nature dry it naturally. Nuking burls = disaster in my shed.

Whatever you do, I hope it all works out and you turn a masterpiece from it.

[buzzby]

Hi Buzzby,

I found this site the other day has some good info and links on different methods

http://www.woodturningonline.com/Tur...es.html#drying

Sound easy(wich is good cuase I'm lazy) sounds cheap(cuase of the first example) and it makes sense. man it was worth asking the question this site is gunna be very helpfull I can see now thanks

[QbnDusty]

Hi Buzzby
What I do is be patient.
Put your green turned whatever into the freezer for a couple or three days. Then weigh it on the kitchen scales and write the weight on the bottom. Put it in the fridge, SWMBO allowing and leave for a couple of weeks. Weigh again and write the weight on the bottom. Keep on doing this until the weight does not change, then its dry and ready for finishing. Has worked every time for me, its gentle and very rarely results in distortion that cannot be corrected.

[Hickory]

I have had GREAT success with Denatured Alcohol drying process. Turn to close to the finished size (1/2" thick or so) Then soak overnight in a container full of Denatured Alcohol (In US that is Ethanol contaminated with some Methanol to make it poison and un drinkable) Next day remove from the soak and allow to air dry a short while, then wrap the outside of the bowl with brown paper (grocery sacks) and Masking tape. Cover the rim and tape to the inside. Weigh the piece and record the weight (I usually date and write the weight on the paper, do this daily and you will see a rapid drop inb weight. After the weight drop has stopped (usually 2 weeks) the piece should be stabilized and you can re-chuck and finish the turnings and finishing.

You can reuse the Denatured Alcohol, It will turn Amber from the wood but will be able to do a good number of pieces, as it weakens simply add more or lengthen the soaking period.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

(In US that is Ethanol contaminated with some Methanol to make it poison and un drinkable)

...which is why, here in Oz, we call it Methylated Spirits. ie. DNA is plain ol' everyday Metho.

(I meant to add that to my orig post but got carried away with the "yak yak" bit. )

[WillyInBris]

Skew,
Have you tried DNA or LDD at all and if so how did it go?

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I used LDD for about 6 months, which worked well on the woods I put through it. After a while the mix started to stink though (it still worked well, just ponged ) and as my barrel was in my shed, well... When it came time to replenish the LDD I simply emptied it out and moved the drum outside, but never got around to refilling. 'Twas nothing but sheer laziness on my part.

I haven't tried DNA myself, but I intend to one day. Bit hard to offer advice on something I've never done myself, eh wot?

[WillyInBris]

Thanks Skew ,

I was thinking of giving DNA a go if its just metho I will just need to buy a 25L drum.
Anyone got any Ideas where I can get this, I am in Brisbane?