Robert Sorby Turning Tools

[Dave Shepherdso]

Hi ,As you can see I am an Apprentice to this forum what I am asking is advice on purcasing Bowl Turning tools and have seen the following advertised.RS 220 KT - RS 230 KT - 812 H,can you offer any views you may have.Thanks Dave

[artme]

Hi Dave,
I'm a bit out of touch with tool prices but it is a good idea to buy unhandled tools because: a) they are cheaper & b) you get turning practise by having to turn your own handles.

Robert Sorby are good tools, as are Hamlet and Henry Taylor(owned by Hamlet). P&N tools seem to be generally the least expensive and are rated very highly by many turners. They have the added advantage of beig an Australian compay.

Depending on what you want to turn you will need a range of tools. Smaller tools are naturally lighter and in tough timbers they tend to get hot quicly and to chatter if not used well. They will also be inclined to chatter if used on larger pieces and you are cutting at a distance from the toolrest.

Have a look at tool sights on the internet under the names I have mentioned and see what each tool is used for and what their makers have to say about them. See what others have to say on this site and get yourself sone basic tuition. Good luck.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

My take on it is that the older carbon steel RS tools are great stuff and I'll quite happily buy up any I find at garage sales, but Sorby has fumbled the ball with their recent HSS tools - they may be good for European woods but for our Aussie hardwoods they just don't cut it.

Personally I believe that P&N or Henry Taylor are far better value for money when it comes to the basic turning tools (gouges, skews, scrapers, etc.)

I can't comment on Sorby's "more specialised" tools such as the spiralling tools, etc. because I don't have any. (Hmmm... actually, I tell a lie. I do have a spindlemaster. It works alright for what it is, but I grew so frustrated with constantly sharpening it that it has been thrown on the gizmo shelf along with my other RS HSS tools. Wish I'd spent the money elsewhere... )

[TTIT]

I have the RS220-KT Dave and wouldn't be without it for quids, but it's really more for hollow forms than bowl turning when using the cutter. BUT, with the scraper attached, it is perfect for shear scraping to clean up the inside and outside of bowls or just about anything else you make - dunno what I'd do without it . Personally, I don't think you'd regret buying it.

Where in CQ are you????

[OGYT]

Don't know if you can get them Down Under, but Doug Thompson makes the longest lasting cutting edges on any bowl tools I've seen. They are like the Glaser tools, made out of harder steel than HSS, and are Kryo treated. If you'll do a search on Wood Central Turning forum, for Doug Thompson Gouges, John Lucas did a test. He turned (in this order) a brass rod into a chisel handle, a brass ferrule for another tool handle, and then a tool handle from hardwood. All without having to re-sharpen the gouge. He sells them unhandled or handled, and they are cheaper than other bowl gouges.
I have three of them, and they are the ones I use the most.
Just $.02, please.

[NeilS]

John Lucas did a test. He turned (in this order) a brass rod into a chisel handle, a brass ferrule for another tool handle, and then a tool handle from hardwood.

Yes, but brass seems a bit softer than some of the Australian hardwoods that I sometimes try to turn...

Neil

[RETIRED]

Yes, but brass seems a bit softer than some of the Australian hardwoods that I sometimes try to turn...

Neil

Ah yes. Eucalyptus Concretus, a close relation to Eucalyptus Granitestonii.

[Frank&Earnest]

Ah yes. Eucalyptus Concretus, a close relation to Eucalyptus Granitestonii.

No joke. Haven't tried these species yet, but I have tried red ironbark and between 1" diametre brass at 300 rpm and 4" ironbark at 2100 rpm I know where I would put my bets on which one will dull the edge first.

[hughie]

My take on it is that the older carbon steel RS tools are great stuff and I'll quite happily buy up any I find at garage sales.

I think this may well apply to quite a few old tools of well known brands. Any that come my way I always check em over carefully.
The steel can often be very good and ideal for finishing work as you can get a much keener edge on them.

Over the last 30-40 years there has been many take overs and closures of steel manufacturers and with that much of the old steel grades have gone.
In Oz now the main one would be Bohler Uddeholm whereas in the 60-70's there would have maybe dozen or so manufacturers from around the world.

sori for the hijack

[andybluemtns]

[quote=
it is a good idea to buy unhandled tools because: a) they are cheaper & b) you get turning practise by having to turn your own handles.)

If you buy unhandled tools how do you turn the first handle


andy

[RETIRED]

With the unhandled tool. Slowly.

[artme]

a) borrow a handled tool if you can,
b) buy one handled tool, preferably a spindle gouge
c) find or hire a well trained beaver
d) send the tool off to some poor unsuspecting expert from this forum and get them to turn it!!

[joe greiner]

You wouldn't believe what some people have used as turning tools. On a thread a while back, regarding using a power plane on the lathe, a few folks (names omitted to protect the guilty) claim to have used an axe, a shovel, a bench plane, and God knows what all else.

Joe

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

You wouldn't believe what some people have used as turning tools. On a thread a while back, regarding using a power plane on the lathe, a few folks (names omitted to protect the guilty) claim to have used an axe, a shovel, a bench plane, and God knows what all else.

You can add valve stems, push rods, s/steel tube, leaf springs and car axles to the list.

Who really cares what the steel was in a previous life, so long as it takes and holds a sharp edge?