whats the best glue to use

[ozyjimbo]

Whats the best glue to use when using tung and groove boards???

[DPB]

NONE

[coggy]

Depends on what you are doing with the T&G boards? Are you laying flooring? Making a shed? Are the boards outside? What exactly are you making

[Shane Watson]

NONE!

[ozyjimbo]

i'm making a door out of it as i am unable to get a panel the size i need

[coggy]

Is it an interior or exterior door?

[coggy]

Yes "None is a good suggestion"

But if its external i would use a bit of "cascamite" it won't harm

[Oldblock]

T&G makes a good large panel because lots of joints allow for swelling and shrinking therefore no glue just loosely assemble and fasten the outer most boards.

[ozyjimbo]

thanks for the replys guys the door i was making is for internal it's more like a lid for a coffin cd case i built as it turned out i did glue the joints of the TnG and then made a little border to nail the lid to i'll have a pic up here soon so you can see what i did with it

[GCP310]

i know with commercially available kitchen solid timber doors,
the interior panel "floats" and is not glued at all.

this allows for expansion with humidity.

G

[JackoH]

What part of "None" do you buggers not understand?:mad:

[DPB]

Since I was the one that started the "NONE" series of answers in this chain, perhaps I should give you a more detailed answer if the reason is not already obvious.

The challenge for all woodworkers is to allow for the natural tendency of wood to move - to expand and contract with seasonal humidity changes. The variation in humidity from summer to winter can be quite dramatic and this causes considerable movement in timber.

Panels are the biggest challenge. They tend to expand at a different rate to the solid solid timber frame into which they are set or attached. That's why most woodworkers set the paned into a mortise with allowance for the expansion/contraction. The panel is not glued in, but rather is set into the mortise to float, free of the constraints that glue introduces.

If the panel is glued to the style and rails, when the expansion/contraction occurs - something has got to give. The result is splitting of the rails and/or styles, or separation of the joints between these two components. Or the panel itself buckles and warps, or perhaps splits.

When it comes to tongue and groove, you have the same forces at work. The tongue is the tenon, and the groove is the mortise. The weakest points in this joint are the tongue and the groove. If you place glue in the groove, splitting of the "shoulders" of the groove will occur and become apparent. It's far better to simply allow this joint to move. That's the intention behind the design of tongue and groove joinery.

So the answer to what is the best glue to use is none .

[GCP310]

Woodchuck, Are you Sure NONE?

Just want to be sure.

G

[barnsey]

ozzyjimbo,

Now that everyone has criticised you for using glue and insist that none is the answer, thought I'd put in my 2p worth.

Built a bookcase out of T&G flooring up here in SE Qld humidity and used glue!!! 2 years down the track not a millimeter of movement and no splitting. Was very seasoned timber - hoop pine I think (t'was an old public dunny door actually) - and never had a problem. That is not to say that I do not agree with what has been said but in my application I needed a solid joint or it would all fall apart. So don't commit your piece to the firewood heap yet but wait and see what happens.

Regards

Jamie

[ozyjimbo]

thanks again guys i think i have finally found the answer to my question after a bit of an eye bashing lol but like yourself jamie i too had to make it solid but it's all good cause it was constructive critisim like i said i have only been doing work with wood for a few weeks lol condemed if you ask and condemed if you don't