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Thread: Turn copy attachments.
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3rd February 2008, 08:02 AM #1
Turn copy attachments.
Like this sort of thing.
http://www.timbecon.com.au/products/...nts-376_0.aspx
I've never used one. Wondering how clean cutting it is with that blade ?
Imagine you use it to do most of the copy then latter remove the jig and clean it up yourself by hand ?
The more expensive woodfast ones there have different blades. When would you use them ? Harder timbers ?
Appreciate any thoughts.
Thanks.
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3rd February 2008, 08:26 AM #2
When I did the intro turning course up at trend timbers
The experienced presenter didn't have much time for them - suggested that they didn't ever really work properly or do a good enough job
Not sure I'd use one on turning handles as half the interest and usability is having them all a little different.
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3rd February 2008, 12:05 PM #3Retired
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3rd February 2008, 12:29 PM #4
Jake it doesn't take long to develop sufficient skills to turn spindles and legs etc.
The copy attachments are pretty hopeless.
If you want to do a lot of repetition work dig up a symtec lathe.
(shock horror expected from the old guard)
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3rd February 2008, 01:00 PM #5Woodturner
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A friend has a Sears lathe with a copy attachment that is made for his lathe. It "turns" out a very poor product. Even with sharp cutting bits, the turned surface is extremely rough and not worth the trouble of sanding.
-- Wood Listener--
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3rd February 2008, 01:47 PM #6
Baa! (I'm just joining the flock. )
I gotta agree, they're more or less useless.
Had a mate who bought one 'cos he reasoned he could turn to near size and then clean up. It didn't turn out that way - pun intended - 'cos by the time he'd cleaned up each piece they were no longer copies. By the time he'd worked out how to clean up each spindle without screwing them up he'd also discovered he could do the same job just as well and more quickly by hand.
- Andy Mc
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3rd February 2008, 01:48 PM #7Skwair2rownd
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Copy attachments
Generally the attachments I have seen are roughly made and have Chinese/Engrish instructions. It says something when they can't be sold at super, super special prices.
The only copy attachment I ever saw that really worked was for a Symtec lathe. Lathe,copier and operater were brilliant. Alas they are no more.
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3rd February 2008, 02:43 PM #8
thanks. So their no good.
I was playing with the idea of instead of a static tungsten cutter (or whatever it is), jig a little laminate trimmer on an aggressive cut with a V bit (?) along a template in a similar way, which may mean you move the router on the other side of the lathe ???
Could that work, uno, assuming the trimmer is kept stable the whole way along...All those rev's may make a smooth cut..(maybe )...
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3rd February 2008, 03:38 PM #9
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3rd February 2008, 03:45 PM #10
Ahhh,,, you've stumbled onto one of our "tricks." Yeah, that works, it's one of the ways we add fluting, spirals, etc onto our fancier pieces.
BTW, I'm assuming you mean with the lathe turned off and rotating the chuck by hand or, if motor driven, very very slowly in single digits for RPM?
Otherwise, lessee... a 1" dia spindle is 3+" around. At 500RPM that's 1500+ inches/min or around 40meters/min of wood passing under the tool tip. You wouldn't expect a router to safely or efficiently cut that fast when done by hand, would you...?
- Andy Mc
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3rd February 2008, 10:15 PM #11
Automatic duplicators are essentially controlled scrapers, usually controlled by following a template or pattern, and impossible to get a good finish without lots of extra work.
But here's a few ways to "automate" production while attaining quality:
1. Mount some drop-down wires on a shaft parallel to the spindle. Wires loosely coiled around the shaft, with length of wires to mate with required diameters, and locations at critical reference points. Rest the wires atop the blank. When the wires drop down behind the workpiece, the diameters are established at reference locations; fair the shape between them with appropriate chisels/gouges.
2. Cut reference tenons at both ends of the workpiece. Use a "contour gauge" or a cardboard/hardboard template to define the shape. Check the shape frequently while cutting. A "contour gauge" is a contraption with a bunch of straight wires slidable in a clamp-like body; Google for more info. Usually limited to about 6 inches (150mm) working length; use cardboard for longer.
3. Haven't tried this one yet, but it sounds like the bee's knees: http://www.delorie.com/wood/tips/parallax-jig.html Build one and set up per the instructions to eyeball progress as you go.
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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4th February 2008, 05:43 AM #12
actually was thinking with the lathe turned on.
I'm not picturing your numbers there too well.
Thinking with an aggressive cut (so the routers not spinning with the lathe) it be cutting at the lathe speed + router speed. 2000rpm + say 10000 (?) ...Just adding the lathe speed
A small bit I was thinking wouldn't get too loaded. But I don't know. Its just an idea.
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4th February 2008, 05:57 AM #13
Thankyou kindly Joe for the tips. Do like that idea in that link you gave too. Might first try the wires.
You all have saved me some money. Thanks. I was seriously thinking of buying one of those copy things too.
I was thinking about it because I remember reading on the net a chair maker with 25 years experience who said he used a copy lathe to do the majority of the work, then used the skew chisel to clean up. But the idea sounds a bit unrealistic. I don't know.
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4th February 2008, 08:12 AM #14Retired
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4th February 2008, 10:43 AM #15
bugga it ,
A cnc woodlathe sounded like a good project too.
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