holesaws

[jarraman]

Hi all. I am after a top quality 50mm holesaw. I cut a lot of wheels for toy making. I have an old one that has the name worn off it although I can just make out USA on it. Anyone got any favourite brands etc. I cut mostly pine around 20mm thick.

[Chipman]

The best holesaws have a solid body or a single unit fixed to an arbor. They are more expensive but are worth it. Just remember to run them slow and avoid overheating it. Also cut about three quarters of the way through then turn it over and finish cutting from the other side...makes it a lot easier to get your wheel out! You can also get tungsten tipped blades.

The ones that have a single base and lots of blades that fit in are cheaper but don't seem to work as well but are good for a few wheels. Have you thought about buying a carbitool wheel cutter?

http://www.carbitool.com.au/pdf%27s/PageR041.pdf

Stu has a video on it!

http://stusshed.wordpress.com/2007/0...-wheel-cutter/


If you still want a hole saw, Bunnings have some good ones..("Sutton" brand) you could also look at places that provide tools to electricians and especially plumbers.


Regards,

Chipman

[Claw Hama]

I have been using Starett for the last 30 years. I have cut everything from timber to sheet stainless and as Chipman has said just run them slowly or feather the triger if you don't have a variable speed drill, also as Chipman said they are a welded one piece blade with an arbor mounted drill. They used to be very expensive but the prices seem to be quite reasonable these days. You can also have them sharpened at your local saw sharpeners. If you are only making soft wood wheels and you don't go too fast and overheat them they will last for years.

[BobL]

How feasible is it to turn cylindrical blanks and then use a parting tool to cut off whatever you need. This would also enable you to add an interesting rounded tyre like profile to the wheel.

[Big Shed]

Perhaps you could look at the Carbitool one that Stuart demonstrated in one of his videos

[Claw Hama]

Jarramanmay not have a lathe, could still be quite quick with the holesaw, saw your blank, put a bolt and through the centre hole, stick it in your drill and hit it with some sand paper, done and dusted.

[Chipman]

How feasible is it to turn cylindrical blanks and then use a parting tool to cut off whatever you need. This would also enable you to add an interesting rounded tyre like profile to the wheel.

That always seems like a good way to do it but then the problem is the grain direction... axle into end grain... the wheel is a lot more likely to break especcialy if thin in relationship to its diameter.... If it is a really wide wheel then it is no longer an issue and what you say will work.


I guess you could always cut your blank the otherway so the grain is across the axis but not many of us have access to wood that thick...

(There is this guy in Perth who has a lot of blue leafed Jarrah that might work well with wheels!!!!) Actually Jarrah makes excellent wheels.

If I am turning wheels on the lathe, I cut them out with a holesaw and then shape them on the lathe. This thread shows some Jarrah wheels that were turned on the lathe...they are also fitted with a steel tube to act a bit like a bearing.

https://www.woodworkforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=75847

Cheers,

Chipman

PS Bob, I was raiding my Father in law's wood pile again...we found a few massive redgum blocks down the bottom...have been there for 30 years so nice and dry and no shrinkage cracks. It is about 600 square and 175 thick.

[rhancock]

I"ll add a vote for the sutton hole saws. I"ve hated hole saws for years, but these are well built and work well.

You buy a arbour and then whenever you need a new size, you just buy a new hole saw for it. Here's a link...

[BobL]

Bob, I was raiding my Father in law's wood pile again...we found a few massive redgum blocks down the bottom...have been their for 30 years so nice and dry and no shrinkage cracks. It is about 600 square and 175 thick.

Sounds good, really good, pics?