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Thread: bark inclusive question
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31st July 2008, 07:11 PM #1
bark inclusive question
Gidday Guys, I got a question again You know when you see a bowl that has the bark still left on the finished rim?
Toni
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31st July 2008, 07:26 PM #2You know when you see a bowl that has the bark still left on the finished rim?Check my facebook:rhbtimber
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31st July 2008, 07:42 PM #3
sorry how do you mount it on the chuck so that it is still left is that sort of doen through the side of the log?
Toni
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31st July 2008, 07:59 PM #4
Sorry, I couln't resist that comment.
I haven't done it, but watched a video where the bloke started it between centres to rough the outer shape and cut a dowel on the bottom for a chuck. and to finish he then put a dummy piece of timber in the chuck then turned the end so that it was round and flat and just pressed the finished bowl up to it with a live center and then turned the dowel off.
I will try to find the video and let you know. There are probably many people out there that can explain it much better than me.Check my facebook:rhbtimber
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31st July 2008, 08:08 PM #5
i use a half log and mount it on a screw chuck. turn a rebate on the front of the log for expanding jaws to mount, turn it round and turn teh outside with a tennon, turn it back round and compleat the inide.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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31st July 2008, 08:21 PM #6
This isn't the video that I originally saw but shows the point.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOZZ40QJVi8&feature=related"]YouTube - Natural Edge Olive Bowl[/ame]Check my facebook:rhbtimber
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31st July 2008, 09:18 PM #7
Here's one way for consideration, although somewhat specialised: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/viburnum-bowl-75122
Also, the usual term for including the bark is "natural edge." Try Google [woodturning "natural edge" bowl]; global Google, not local to WWF. Whenever including the bark, it helps to dribble some CA on the bark and cambium (layer just under the bark) occasionally for reinforcement.
I usually do the first turning between centres with the top toward the headstock, turn the outside and a tenon or mortise. (Almost the same as Carl/weisyboy). Then mount in a chuck to do the inside. With NE's, the top can't be used in Cole jaws or Longworth or just about anything else. So a jam chuck is probably best to finish the bottom, with tailstock assist, leaving a tiny nubbin to be pared off with a chisel or Dremel.
Video loads too slow via dialup, so I can't compare with the above.
Try it, Toni. You'll like it.
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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31st July 2008, 09:53 PM #8
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31st July 2008, 11:28 PM #9
Forstner method
I can't remember if you had a drill press Toni but this is another option if you do. Quickest and easiest method I've tried
1. drill recess to suit your jaws with a forstner bit.
2. mount on chuck
3. and turn outside with tenon
4. reverse piece by mounting on the tenon to hollow bowl.
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31st July 2008, 11:31 PM #10So a jam chuck is probably best to finish the bottom
RobertCheck my facebook:rhbtimber
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31st July 2008, 11:39 PM #11
thank you been trying to figure this out for days wether it was the the end grain you used or the cross the log htat video and all pictures helped me a lot. Thanks a heap
Also Vern I do have a drill press and forstner bit so that was interesting too.
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31st July 2008, 11:47 PM #12
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31st July 2008, 11:53 PM #13
you would LOL no seriously thanks skew much apprecaited as usual..
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1st August 2008, 08:01 PM #14
Nice grain in that piece Skew
what was it?
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