Center

[Richard0470]

Dear turning world folk,

I would be interested to find (if available) a lathe centre which fits into a drill chuck? Does anyone out there know where i can buy one? For those of you who have seen my lathe/spinner (thread/Seudo Lathe) its quite an agricultural set up but am limited in its capacity. I have a contact in the metal world who can machine down the MCL-222 or MCL221 in the attatched pic to fit a 13mm chuck, but would prefer to buy one purpose made for a drill chuck. Can anyone help me (albeit beyond help) ?

Waiting agog.

Richard

[RETIRED]

I have a contact in the metal world who can machine down the MCL-222 or MCL221 in the attatched pic to fit a 13mm chuck, but would prefer to buy one purpose made for a drill chuck.

I woud suggest you go with that. I have not seen one (except as done above) but I ain't seen everything either.

[oldiephred]

Most live centers have a replacable center that is available through the supplier and those would fit into a drill chuck. Your machinist could also make you a complete one from mild steel rather than turn down a purchased one, probably at a lower price. This way if you damage the tip he can re-chuck it and repair.

[DJ’s Timber]

Most live centers have a replacable center that is available through the supplier and those would fit into a drill chuck. Your machinist could also make you a complete one from mild steel rather than turn down a purchased one, probably at a lower price. This way if you damage the tip he can re-chuck it and repair.

But he isn't talking about a Live centre here, if you look at the part numbers that he has listed, he is after the spur drive part

[Rum Pig]

I thought that most drill press were mortise tapper #2 like the lathes so could you not remove the chuck and replace it with your spur drive??? (I am no expert so forgive if I'm wrong)

[hughie]

Hmm, I would doubt that this is an off the shelf item. I think you will need to have made or get one modified to your requirements.
In 30+ years or so I have not seen one, off the shelf. But as says I ain't seen everything

[RETIRED]

I thought that most drill press were mortise tapper #2 like the lathes so could you not remove the chuck and replace it with your spur drive??? (I am no expert so forgive if I'm wrong)

True on pedestal or bench drills. Not so on power drills unfortunately.

[Rum Pig]

True on pedestal or bench drills. Not so on power drills unfortunately.

Yes the photo did not show up when I read it first but now I can see
I should have tried harder before putting my two bob in

[Sprog]

Many, many years ago I had a small Black and Decker lathe. It used the B&D drill as the power source. The chuck was unscrewed and in its place a spur drive or a face plate or a screw chuck was fitted.

The tailstock was a dead centre which just used bees wax as a lubricant. Worked well for what is was.

If your chuck will unscrew perhaps you could find a suitable bolt to make up the parts.

[Richard0470]

Once again, you all have enlightended me with your knowledge, thankyou. As my current drive was made for me to begin with at a princley sum of 0, i think i might try and push my luck and get the MCL-221 machined down to fit my chuck.

Its probably easier to to get this turned down than to turn the wife round into buying me a lathe for fathers day next week!!

[joe greiner]

A spade bit can be easily modified to function as a drive spur. Fifth picture here: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=57412

Joe

[wheelinround]

Joe beat me to it.

[Richard0470]

A spade bit can be easily modified to function as a drive spur. Fifth picture here: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=57412

Joe

Thankyou for the spade bit idea, it seems like a lot less mucking around and waiting for the spur drive to be machined down. Aprt from shortening the shaft and cutting off the outside tips, should i leave the sharp edge on the cutting blade to grab the wood or grind it down a bit to prevent possible boring into the end of the timber. Do i make the cutting edge 90 deg from the shaft, as i see the one you used is angled slightly. If the spade bit could be welded (possibly creating more work for myself) i was going to build up a cross formation so that it looked on end like this +. for probably better grip, although i might give the basic spade a go first to see how it turns out.

[joe greiner]

The original form of the spade bit is almost perpendicular to the axis, with just a wee relief angle. I ground those down to approximate the shape of a normal drive spur to reduce a tendency to bore a hole. Even a normal drive spur can bore into a spindle blank with inadequate tailstock pressure. To reduce this, cut a crosswise slot in the end of the blank. Some folks cut another slot, perpendicular to the first, for better purchase with normal four-"tooth" drive spurs. Not a bad idea, especially for cross-grain work like bowls. For light-duty work, only two spurs should be sufficient. Try it on scrap, before worrying about all that welding - probably impossible to get really perpendicular anyway. For that matter, production four-tooth spurs aren't perfect either. For re-mounting, file or grind a mark on the drive spur barrel, and mark the timber for accurate second placement. Ditto for jaw numbers of scroll chucks.

Joe

[woodwork wally]

I have a small aluminium one that came with a little sherline [I think ] pen lathe and it is great for small turnings and as they have been around try the nett for drive centre miniature regards Wally