Help with tool marks?

[ElizaLeahy]

I bought a set of pin jaws, put them on my chuck - wow! I can do pretty knobs on the ends now.

I found that I have to leave a section that is even in roundness - I mean, to be held in the jaws it really has to be horizontal, like dowl, not tapered.

Even so, when I have it gripped hard enough in the jaws to stop it trembling, when I undo the jaws they have marked the wood.

So what do I do?

Woods tried so far - camphor laurel, red cedar, oak

[TTIT]

Assuming you are just finishing off the ends of your hairsticks, you should not need to grab them that tight if you are only taking light cuts and sanding. If not, putting some anti-slip matting (like the supermarkets sell) between the jaws and the stick will help.

When I want to remount slightly bigger diameters for finishing I use sections of PVC pipe that I've collected in a big range of diameters between the work and the jaws. You might be able to apply the same principle with some garden hose or similar if you split it down it's length - just tell the boss the kids have been pinching it to make bongs again

[BobL]

Assuming you are just finishing off the ends of your hairsticks, you should not need to grab them that tight if you are only taking light cuts and sanding. If not, putting some anti-slip matting (like the supermarkets sell) between the jaws and the stick will help.

I glued a thick leather lining the jaws on one of my sets of chuck jaws.
Like this
this
- on my other jaws I use the antislip mats

[Manuka Jock]

Eliza ,
If the jaw marks are still there after the ideas given above , or if your sticks at too fine for those to work , soak the marked ends in water .
Stand the sticks up in a tall glass , with just enough water (cold) to cover the dents , and leave overnight. . allow to dry , again standing upright , and give a sand with fine sand/emery paper .
Most softer woods will swell back out .

[Ruddy]

Hello Eliza....Love your work and love reading your posts.........keep it up.
What I do to stop the marking of the jaws on the piece being turned is to fit some wooden faces to the chuck. I have some 3mm hoop pine plywood that I use. I cut a strip about 6 mm wide and make it as long as the jaw length. I then use a very good quality double sided tape and attach each jaw with one piece of the hoop pine plywood. Provided you do not overtighten the jaws you will find that this will not leave a mark on your piece. They will stay in place so you can turn any number of items.
This allows you to grip highly polished wood without marking.
Hope this helps

Ruddy

[killerbeast]

i use a vine cork. plastic or real cork. grippes in my pin jaws with a fitting hole drilled. squeeze the cork and you can light sand/turn the last bit... i use them for my viking inspired scarf holders..

[ElizaLeahy]

i use a vine cork. plastic or real cork. grippes in my pin jaws with a fitting hole drilled. squeeze the cork and you can light sand/turn the last bit... i use them for my viking inspired scarf holders..

Rasmus, show us your scarf hoders!

I've seen shawl pins - bit hot for them here!

Thanks for all the ideas, I'll try them out!

[killerbeast]

no problem. you can see some on my site. www.woodturning.dk i galleries - Smykker (jewlery) section.. sorry that i haven gotten around to translating the page into English ...

i have been asked to write up an article (for an american woodturning mag) on how i make them, and i hope i have the time to do it sometime soon..

[ElizaLeahy]

no problem. you can see some on my site. www.woodturning.dk i galleries - Smykker (jewlery) section.. sorry that i haven gotten around to translating the page into English ...

i have been asked to write up an article (for an american woodturning mag) on how i make them, and i hope i have the time to do it sometime soon..

Beautiful! Makes me wish we had colder weather. Well, everything makes me wish we had colder weather!

[joe greiner]

Although it increases the amount of stock required, the part in the jaws can be sacrificed at final cutoff on the lathe. Only the tip needs gentle sanding by hand.

Cheers,
Joe

[ElizaLeahy]

Although it increases the amount of stock required, the part in the jaws can be sacrificed at final cutoff on the lathe. Only the tip needs gentle sanding by hand.

Cheers,
Joe

Unless you have a tip at both ends

[joe greiner]

Unless you have a tip at both ends

Aah! Right. Then the correct answer is: It depends.

Cheers,
Joe

[weisyboy]

i use thin rubber matting

ill chuck a bit in your box so u can try it out.

just cut a peics as wide as the jaws that just wraps around the peice to be turned.