vermec sanding handle

[robyn2839]

are these things any good (does anyone use one) i recently bought one and i am still scratching my head as to why i bought it ,or am i doing something wrong.......bob

[TTIT]

Glad it's not just me then! I inherited a couple and made another and haven't picked any of them up for years - much more useful with some power behind them

[Pat]

Well I have Neil's version and love it. Easy to use, even without Tell you what, how about you send me one and I'll compare it to the Ubeaut one

[hughie]

you mean one of these http://vermec.tripod.com/PDFs/sandinghandle.pdf

I have a equivelant and find real handy

[Cliff Rogers]

The one from Ubeaut is actually Vic Wood's originally, I have one & I use it to death, love it.
The only thing I did to it was grind a bit off the knob on the bearing end so I could get further around the back of bowls & platters without hitting the chuck.

If you have a spare one of the Vermec type Vern, I'll give it a try too.

[Pat]

Hey Cliff, looks like we can help Vern clean up his shed a bit

[Tim the Timber Turner]

I tend to power sand the first couple of grits, then use a passive sander (a pad in a handle) for the finer grits. The passive sander works with a gentler sanding action, resulting in less heat and a longer abrasive life. It takes a bit longer to achive the same result as power sanding.

The passive sanders come into their own when used on heat sensitive timbers like blackwood.

Cheers

Tim

[Wayne Blanch]

I have the Vermec one and have had the one from Ubeaut. I reckon that they are both teriffic!

I prefer the Vermec one as it has the adjustable head angle that allows for better contact inside bowls and in some of the harder to get at angles on some items. However it was more expensive.

I use them on most of the turning that I do. I tend to use them for the coarser grits up to 240 but then I hand sand for the finer grits. Using the sanding handles I find that I don't have any trouble with sanding marks in the wood.

I have never used a power sander on turnings, so I can not comment on the advantages of them.

[robyn2839]

you mean one of these http://vermec.tripod.com/PDFs/sandinghandle.pdf

I have a equivelant and find real handy

yes thats the one i have ,will try it with courser grits otherwise out it goes, thankyou all for the info....bob

[efgee88]

I've not used one of these before, but I have used my hands! And, knowing that I do get a lot of feed back from the feel through my hands, pressure, positioning etc, I am puzzled how effective a device like this would be especially for fine sanding on softer woods.
Can anyone clarify this?

Cheers
FrankG

[madcraft]

I've not used one of these before, but I have used my hands! And, knowing that I do get a lot of feed back from the feel through my hands, pressure, positioning etc, I am puzzled how effective a device like this would be especially for fine sanding on softer woods.
Can anyone clarify this?

Cheers
FrankG

FrankG

The I found I had about the same feel both handblock sanding and using both the Vermec and the vic wood one the difference I found was the finish , you can be less agressive with the paper because the sanding head is spinning at the same speed as the wood and I find I has less "scratches" using a rotary , I tried power sanding but kept having problems with the head seperating due to heat { I dont get this with the unpowered } and seem to get the same level of finish as using a rotary anyway so it frees up a powerpoint for me and i have 1 toy less to worry about

on the grit size I use up to 1500 on the Rotary {50mm and 75mm heads } and then hit it with EEE its the best finish I've ever seen

[Manuka Jock]

I've not used one of these before, but I have used my hands! And, knowing that I do get a lot of feed back from the feel through my hands, pressure, positioning etc, I am puzzled how effective a device like this would be especially for fine sanding on softer woods.
Can anyone clarify this?

Cheers
FrankG

I turn large (450mm) platters , out of NZ Kauri sapwood , and it ,being a pine , can and does tear very easily.
So I factor in a lot of sanding to the process .

I use one akin to original version (Neil's) , large 75mm pad , with velcro backed sanding mesh . I start at 80 (grit) and work thru to 360.
Then switch over to 400 grit wet and dry hand held .

Being platters , with large sweeping curves and broad flat surfaces , it works .

On tighter work I was not so happy with the result.

[madcraft]

I turn large (450mm) platters , out of NZ Kauri sapwood , and it ,being a pine , can and does tear very easily.
So I factor in a lot of sanding to the process .

I use one akin to original version (Neil's) , large 75mm pad , with velcro backed sanding mesh . I start at 80 (grit) and work thru to 360.
Then switch over to 400 grit wet and dry hand held .

Being platters , with large sweeping curves and broad flat surfaces , it works .

On tighter work I was not so happy with the result.

Manuka Jock

Have you tried the tighter curves with the 50mm head , the only problem I'v found is on the outer edge the turbo really kicks in and you have really hang on and watch for heat buildup

[Manuka Jock]

Manuka Jock

Have you tried the tighter curves with the 50mm head , the only problem I'v found is on the outer edge the turbo really kicks in and you have really hang on and watch for heat buildup

No , I only have the one 75mm head . A 50 , and a 25 would be handy.

I did find that I had to watch out for the direction change , if the 'drive' swapped from one side to the other .
the 'rooster tail' scratch marks are a bugga to sand past .

I know the turbo effect you speak of tho eh , at 200 mm out from center , things really roar

[hughie]

yep me too, if any body has one they dont need or like etc I'll take it off thier hands.