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25th May 2014, 11:36 PM #1Novice
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Advice needed: angled rip without a tablesaw
Hi,
The stock I'm working with is a strip of hardwood measuring 900x40x12.
I basically want to rip a single straight line so it remains 40mm on one end, but tapers off to 30mm at the other.
This is very different from ripping straight strips out of larger stock using a circular saw & straight edge and clamps, I have no idea how to approach it. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris.
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25th May 2014 11:36 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th May 2014, 03:36 AM #2
Good Morning Chris
Given the small size of your piece of timber, it will be quite difficult to hold it securely for power tools. No bench saw, presume no band saw.
Using a strait edge, I would accurately scribe a cutting line. As the cut is only 12 mm thick and 900 mm long, I would then cut using a hand saw about 1 - 2 mm outside the line and then very carefully plane back to the scribe line. You could also cut it with a jigsaw or a band saw or even remove all the waste with a hand plane.
Fair Winds
Graeme
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26th May 2014, 09:20 AM #3Senior Member
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If I only had a circular saw and straight edge, I'd use some scrap to build a jig that will hold the lumber and give enough room for the saw to rest on and clamp the straight edge.
ron
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26th May 2014, 09:52 AM #4
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26th May 2014, 09:56 AM #5Senior Member
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26th May 2014, 07:49 PM #6
What I would be doing may not be applicable to others due to the equipment I have.
I have a Festool circular saw and 1400mm track with clamps.
Placing the hardwood on the bench next to a wider piece of timber and of the same thickness (or pack to same thickness) and about the same length. Place the track on the hardwood where the desired cut is to be made, 40mm at one end, 30mm at the other, the second piece of timber is there only to support the track. Clamp the track down. Now using the saw set at the appropriate depth of cut, in one simple action you can cut the hardwood to your required size.
That is one long wedge!
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26th May 2014, 08:19 PM #7
This is close to one option I'd use... Got a length of scrap MDF, ply or a wide board you can glue the strip to? (You can generally recover the "scrap" for use later, but it's best to use something that you won't mind wasting if all goes wrong. Y'know? )
You don't have to glue it to the middle, mark your line and glue it on with the future waste piece hanging over an edge of the scrap. ie. with your marked line aligned along the edge. Then use the CS to cut along that edge, using the scrap as your platform.
I've used brown paper in the glue joint to make it more easily "broken" once the cut is done... and a little bit of light sanding should clean the glue off both pieces up nicely.
- Andy Mc
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27th May 2014, 12:53 AM #8
Hi Chris
assuming you have a decent #5 hand plane and the blade is sharp, I'd use a sticking board and plane the taper -- just watch the direction of the grain
if you have a scrub plane taking off most of the excess is very quick and the #5 would be used to finish
this should be much faster than building a jig to safely support a circular saw and straight edgeregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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29th May 2014, 11:23 PM #9Novice
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Hi guys,
Thank you all for your considered replies, nothing opens your eyes like other people's years of experience.
The jig & CS idea is certainly do-able, but I can see myself doing this by scribing & hand planing, so I might give that a shot
cheers,
Chris.
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30th May 2014, 10:07 AM #10Senior Member
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- Wongawallan, SE Qld
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Good luck with it Chris, I'm sure it will work well for you
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