Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 35
Thread: Tablesaw advice requested
-
14th August 2005, 06:02 PM #1
Tablesaw advice requested
My new tablesaw came with a fence, mitre fence and sliding carriage and pushstick but no system such as a pressure finger or feather board to hold the timber against the main fence.
Is it imperative to always use one of those accessories?
The Record manual that came with the saw states the company will not be responsible for any modification, changes etc to operation of the saw if changes are made.
woody U.K.
"Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln
-
14th August 2005 06:02 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
14th August 2005, 06:20 PM #2
Well along with zero clearance inserts, feather boards are one of the first accessories you make for your saw I'd reckon.
Make two. One to hold the stock against the fence and one to provide downward pressure.
You can just clamp them in place so it's not like you are modifying your saw.
Nice set-up btw.
-
14th August 2005, 06:25 PM #3
When I can afford it I'm going to get a set of Grr-rippers. Have a search here for them. The www.microjig.com website is down at the moment but on there is a great little video on it.
Photo Gallery
-
14th August 2005, 06:35 PM #4
OHH Please, Can't you lot see through his plan.
Flagrant gloating, that's what it is. New saw, sucker, router table box in the back ground. All of this just to make us jealous.
P.S. It worked.Boring signature time again!
-
14th August 2005, 07:26 PM #5
I two table saw DVD's and neither show any featherboards for normal feeding of the timber.They advocate standing to the left side of the blade (opposite from the fence) , push the timber with your right hand (using a push stick) and keeping pressure on the timber toward the fence with the left hand. Then letting the left hand go as the end of the timber nears the blade.I have 2 grrippers and use them for all my small work. Large work, just the above method.
If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
-
15th August 2005, 08:17 AM #6Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2005
- Location
- Awaba
- Age
- 62
- Posts
- 52
I agree with Gumby - I don't think you need featherboards with a sliding table setup. I've never felt the need anyway. For the spindle moulder though with smallish pieces I am finding they are a very good idea.
-
15th August 2005, 09:30 AM #7Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2005
- Location
- Snowtown South Australia
- Age
- 78
- Posts
- 321
Had a look at the promo on Grrrippers.......I was impressed.Any one know as to the price in Aus?..............Al
If your not confused you dont know whats going on!
-
15th August 2005, 09:33 AM #8
$115 each from Northwood Tools. http://www.northwoodtools.com.au/category132_1.htm
Compares well with US prices.Photo Gallery
-
15th August 2005, 09:38 AM #9Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2005
- Location
- Snowtown South Australia
- Age
- 78
- Posts
- 321
Thanks for that........................Al
If your not confused you dont know whats going on!
-
15th August 2005, 11:42 AM #10
In thirty years of using a table saw I've never owned or used a feather board
If it goes against the grain, it's being rubbed the wrong way!
-
15th August 2005, 11:58 AM #11
I made a featherboard for my TS, and its great. I use it all the time on small stock. It sits in the mitre slot, and uses a countersunk screw and wingnut to hold it rock-solidly in place. I want to make another one for fixing to the fence and holding the stock down.
Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
-
15th August 2005, 12:17 PM #12
Yes a featherboard is a handy thing to have, especially for cutting narrow or tall and thin stock (like grooving the edge of a board for example). It holds the stock firmly against the fence and allows you to concentrate on not cutting your fingers off. I don't use mine very often but there are times when I reckon it's almost a necessity.
"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
-
15th August 2005, 05:49 PM #13
I knocked up a couple of featherboards yesterday, the piece for the mitre slot gives me no concern but the featherboard I made to attach to the sliding fence worries me slightly.
My fence slides along alli rails (front and back ) with nylon type sliders and if there was a serious lift up with heavy timber I feel there might be too much pressure on the mechanism, also the alli fence might get distorted.
Therefore the top featherboard I would most likely only want to use with small and slender pieces.
By the way I am getting quite a lot of lift up of timber which is fortunately being held back down by the blade guard.
Do I have a problem?????????woody U.K.
"Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln
-
15th August 2005, 06:12 PM #14Originally Posted by jow104Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
-
15th August 2005, 06:26 PM #15Originally Posted by zenwood
I have only run 3 mtrs of timber through the new machine todate. :eek:woody U.K.
"Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln
Similar Threads
-
elctrical connection between tablesaw and dust collector
By zenwood in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 46Last Post: 16th July 2005, 09:18 AM -
Advice on drum sander / sharpener choice
By tonyhart in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 8Last Post: 29th January 2005, 07:10 PM -
New Workshop Advice
By dazzler in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 18Last Post: 4th January 2005, 10:44 AM -
jointer planer advice requested
By jow104 in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETCReplies: 8Last Post: 8th July 2004, 01:37 AM -
Kity tablesaw
By Darwin in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 18Last Post: 7th February 2004, 01:52 PM