Thread: Dust Extraction - Cyclone

Doorstop,

I did it all myself and I've got the cuts to prove it.

Placed a piece of 100mm PCV held between two workmates and then hand rolled/formed the curves. The only folding is the inlet which is rectangular. Did this with the old hammer and a block of square edged hardwood.

For those who are still unsure as to how a cyclone works, the following info is poached from a US site.

Cyclone - How it Works
For those of you who are new to cyclone dust separators, here is a basic description of how it works.

The blower consists of a motor, fan, inlet and outlet. As blower turns, suction is created at the inlet (4). Air (and dust) enter at (1) and are forced to circulated around the cylinder. As the air approaches the funnel shaped portion of the cyclone (2), dust is spun against the sides and eventually settles down in to the collector (3). The remaining air (less the dust) is blown out the outlet and into a bag or filter.

That one in the photo must work really well - not a speck of dust or even grime on anything in that corner of the workshop

Eastie,

Yes, they do work very well IF they are designed and built correctly. I do suspect though that some manual cleaning has taken place before that photo was taken.

I must have spent a good 4 hours almost straight going over Bill's site.
http://cnets.net/~eclectic/woodworki...one/Index.html

Finally a thorough analysis on a dust extraction system for the home workshop.

Anyone considering any dust extraction should look over this site, for its a brilliant piece of work.

Wayne thanks for mentioning the site.

Wayne do you have a few pics of the construction process or just even pics of the different parts.

I would probably prefer to buy one off the shelf, if the price was right. However I think Bill's site would indicate, that this is at least a year away; as the manufacturers begin to improve the design of the current models.

Good luck with yours.

Once you've had it operational for while, I'd be interested in some fed back.

Good luck finishing it.

Did you hold the cone structure together with rivets?
Do these need to be removed once soldered together?

Cheers
Pulpo
http://

Pulpo,

I will be posting some more pics soon. As for construction, yes I have pop riveted it together to hold it for soldering. I plan on removing most of the pop rivets and soldering up the holes as I go. The pop rivets are put in "back the front" i.e. the flat head is on the inside of the cyclone. This is to make it smoother on the inside for the ones that I will leave in place.

I also plan on setting up my web site with pics, construction notes and performance when I get time (ha, ha). With two little kids (1 and 4), I have not been getting much workshop time on the weekends so it has not been progressing as quickly as I would like. Hopefully, I will get the soldering finished this weekend and then fit the motor/fan and give it a burl.

Stay tuned...

Originally posted by Wayne Davy
... Hopefully, I will get the soldering finished this weekend and then fit the motor/fan and give it a burl.

WOW :eek:
I'd be happy with one that picked up dust and small woodchips.

Well maybe not an actual "Burl" (unless it is only 5-6 inches across) Also, that would be a horrible waste in any case and I would probably be drawn/quartered by some of the others on this site if I did.

A 'whirl" perhaps.

Ok, I have discovered that I cannot solder sheet metal (F#@%, B@$%$#). What a mess solder everywhere - except on the joints!

So, time for plan B. I am just going to leave the pop rivets in and seal it up with caulk, liquid nails or something and then put alum. flashing tape over the joints (on the outside).

Anyway, below is a new pic in which you can see the outlet pipe (top, right) with the air ramp attached (makes the air spiral really nicely - I hope).

P.S. I hate metal work - give me a nice piece of wood anyday :mad:

I was thinking what a pain that will be to remove and solder the holes of those rivets.

Smart thinking to place the smother side on the inside of the cyclone.

I cannot see why caulking will not work

My only advice on soldering
Have the torch on a low setting.
Heat the metal surface and let the metal melt the solder.
Have plenty of flux on the suface.

Are you using the right solder.

All I can say is practice with some scrap.

I have to admit I'm not talented at soldering, I would prefer mig welding, not possible metal too thin I think.

Also the air ramp looks small.

Is it meant to go from the start of the cone to the start of the blower impeller?

Finally for the inlet source, how far do you shove the rectangular inlet duct into the cyclone structure, if at all?

Good Luck

Pulpo

Pulpo,

I have give up on solder - caulk/glue will do. From what I have read, solder is only to give a really smooth surface but rivet heads don't make a great deal of difference to the air flow. The other reason is to get a nice outside look which does not make one zot of diff to performance. At bit of paint will probably make it look Ok but I don't really care too much. I just want it to suck the all the s#$% out of my shop

My main problem with the solder, and Bill mentions this, is that I cannot hold the joints really tight together and the solder just runs through. So, caulk/glue it is. It may not look beautiful but it will work.

As for the ramp, it is the correct size and I don't believe it has to go all the way up. I had a great deal of difficulty getting in the position it is with out it twisting/warping. The Inlet (which is rectangular) goes half way in i.e. to the mid point of the top drum of the cyclone. This means that the bottom of the inlet will match to my air ramp which I believe is Ok.

I am hoping to have it close to finished by Sunday (have to buy more roses for SHMBO).

Hi Wayne

One small question which may not have been asked yet are you using galvanised sheetmetal or zincalume?

If its zincalume then that is the answer to your problem,

Darryn,

Its definitely galvanised - it's just my lack of metal solder skills. Glue/caulk will do just fine.