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Thread: which bowl gouge.?
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11th February 2014, 07:49 PM #1
which bowl gouge.?
Hi guys,
My old chinese bowl gouge has had it, s last sharpen
So it, s time to buy a new one,,,,, but which one is best
value and hardwaring,, what is best size? Make etc?
I would like to get aussie made, are there any?
I have had a look on CWS, where there are a few
options, but would like to know what others think
differerant steel, which size?
Cheers smiife
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11th February 2014 07:49 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th February 2014, 07:58 PM #2Senior Member
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Bowl gouge
Mate,
I have the bowl gouge set in the below link, its great value and very good quality - highly recommended !!!
http://www.garypye.com/Turning-Tools...stem-p726.html
Regards,
Cam
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11th February 2014, 08:03 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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If you ask 12 turners this question you will probably get 10 different answers.
For me the Woodcut 12mm for shaping or a 10mm Jerry Glaser for final cuts.
The best bowl gouge is the one you have in your hand and are using.
Cheers
TimSome days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't give a stuff so I don't turn at all.
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11th February 2014, 08:19 PM #4
P&N are Aussie
Woodcut are New Zealand
Robert Sorby are UK
Record are UK
Henry Taylor are UK
GPW, Woodfast , etc are chinese or asian variantsJim Carroll
One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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11th February 2014, 08:24 PM #5Skwair2rownd
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I have Four: A P&N which I like very much, A Henry Taylor which is close to the P&N,
A Hamlet which is pretty good and a Robert Sorby that I don't like much.
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11th February 2014, 08:31 PM #6
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11th February 2014, 08:41 PM #7
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11th February 2014, 09:45 PM #8
Vicmarc 12mm
thompson 12mm U shapeDANGER!!!!I'm Dyslexic Spelling may offend!!!!!
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11th February 2014, 10:41 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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I like my P&N and I have 3/8 sorby, I usually go for the P&N it's a 16 mm pretty robust and a 8 mm that I have not used much!
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12th February 2014, 04:11 AM #10GOLD MEMBER
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12th February 2014, 07:24 AM #11Member
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Bowl gouges
Hi Team, Only 10 answers, don't ask about sharpening. I have Sorby, Hamlet, Woodcut, P+N and my favourite Thompson. Do I know how t use them, No. I like Thompson for the steel, finish and the price is reasonable relative to quality and you make your own custom handles. The Thompson Vee gouge is preferred over the U shape. P+N steel is good pity about the flute shape in gouges (off centre) great for Skews scrapers etc. Hamlet steel is likewise good. I purchased a double ended woodcut 9mm bowl gouge but have not used it enough to comment. I don't like Sorby, others do. The handles on most tools are too small for my liking so all my future tools will be Thompson with my own handles. Now learning to use them another story. Jay
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12th February 2014, 10:26 AM #12
When considering value for money, P&N (unhandled) are up there.
The trick is to not buy on-line, but to go into the store and look over the tools yourself, paying particular attention to the flutes. Off-centre? Back on the shelf. Nasty ridges & scores the length of the flute? Back on the shelf.
Once you have a good one, then the first thing to do once it follows you home is to use a small, rounded slip-stone (or s/paper wrapped around a wooden form or...) and hone the inside of the flute until that sucker shines. Remember, it's the flute that is the cutting edge and if it's 'ragged' then the cutting edge will be too!
It sounds like a lot of work... and is... but the end result is worth it. They're made from damned good steel and the only real difference in use between my 8mm P&N gouge & my 8mm Thompson Kryo is time between sharpens. The Kryo lasts quite a bit longer, but cost a helluva lot more. So I only use it for finishing cuts now... the P&N is my main goto.
- Andy Mc
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12th February 2014, 01:14 PM #13GOLD MEMBER
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Wot Skew said about tuning above. I have Crown, Thompson, Henry Taylor, Chinese from Penn State Industries, unknown HSS reputedly from Sheffield. Three are 5/8 in, two 1/2, and one 3/8.
When sharpened on a 120 grit dry grinder using a fixed jig to a mild fingernail grind, they all cut about the same for about the same length of time.
I do have the habit of when a tool is not easily making shavings to give it a quick swipe on the grinder.
I think there is more difference in how the tool is sharpened and how it is handled than in the brand name.
I have several OLD, OLD, carbon steel tools that cut better than the HSS for a shorter time. I use those, freshly sharpened and honed for the final cuts before sanding.
My most recent is a Buck Brothers cast steel spindle gouge. Rolled up on its side it puts a finish on the inside or outside of a bowl as nice as a skew puts on a spindle.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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12th February 2014, 05:32 PM #14Senior Member
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My go to is a woodcut I buy the tip 12mm, and fit it on a bright steel shaft then it fits in the woodcut handle or crown revelution .
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12th February 2014, 07:14 PM #15
Hi guys,
WOW, ask 13 turners and get 13 differing replies
Thanks to all that have taken time to offer an opinion
very much appreciated,
Lots of info to take in and compare the pros and cons
Cheers smiife
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