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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Adelaide SA
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    2

    Default Waterproof finish on turned bowl - advice required

    I am relatively new to turning and volunteering at a community centre making bowls and other items for sale with the proceeds going to the centre. We use the EEE wax for most bowls and I have also used Organ oil Hard Burnishing Oil. The wax tends to mark if it gets wet, maybe we are not applying it correctly. The oil is OK but I am not sure how long it will last when washed.

    Can I please have some suggestions re finishing off a turned object that will give a waterproof surface that can be wiped out with a wet cloth.

    Thanks, Bob.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    4,475

    Default

    "Rustins Plastic Coating"

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    3,260

    Default

    3-4-5 coats of boatbuilding epoxy.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Nth of Newcastle
    Age
    77
    Posts
    811

    Default

    I use a few coats of WOP .....wipe on poly......clear satin...by Minwax. Bunnys stock it.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,918

    Default

    EEE is not a finish. It is an abrasive. See here: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/usi...llawax-131234/

    As others have said, unless you cover it in epoxy you might as well make it out of plastic.

    Most finishes, if done properly will survive a damp cloth.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,360

    Default

    For the inside of goblets, etc. which may contain fluids for quantities of time, I'm with China: I seal the inside section with Rustin's Plastic Finish. Never had a 'red wine' stained goblet come back yet.

    But it does feel 'plasticky' to the touch so I usually finish the outside sections in these cases with Danish Oil. Much more tactile.

    However, as with all my turned 'utility pieces' I also warn the owner that it should only be rinsed in warm water and wiped dry immediately. On the odd occasion I've had complaints (which I suspect were from ignoring my advice and using a bloody dishwasher) it has been easy enough to restore the finish with another coat of DO.

    Then leave it on my shelves for a month 'to cure' before handing it back...

    FWIW, after applying any finish that will be washed/cleaned, it's a damned good idea to set the piece aside for a month or three before using it. Gives the finish time to harden properly and be less susceptible to marking.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Adelaide SA
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Thank you all for the tips. I did have a typo, we use EEE followed by Shellawax. That tutorial on those products is great, thanks, I have printed it and will show all the guys in the centre.
    There are enough products listed for us to try, and I will remember the curing tip.

    Thanks again,
    Bob.

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