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Thread: Shellac Again!

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camelot View Post
    You mentioned your doing a large top, so you will need to work across it quickly keeping a continues wet edge to allow the shellac to blend into itself to form one coat, should you yet to one end of the top, but when returning to start another line (or section) at the other end you may no longer have a wet edge this is where overlapping or brush marks can occur.
    Yes this is correct

    Quote Originally Posted by Camelot View Post
    If this is the case you could work the full width of the top but still following the grain in the tops length direction (assuming the width distance is less than the length) this should hopefully help maintain a constant wet edge to work from.
    Can you explain further what you mean?.

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71 View Post
    Can you explain further what you mean?.
    Not really so I have done a drawing

    French Polishing.png

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71 View Post
    I have about 250-300 odd brushes as I'm a portrait artist. I tried the mob brushes before but found the hakes give a much better finish and hold more material than the mops. Also, they're not very practical when doing a large table top.
    I have a friend who is a part time portrait artist, he only started in the last few years, but he is quite good

    James Stickland Art

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camelot View Post
    Not really so I have done a drawing

    French Polishing.png
    Thanks for the example Cam. I never thought of doing it like this and can see how it might work.

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