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Thread: Shellac Again!
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4th May 2024, 05:44 PM #1
Shellac Again!
Is there a way to slow the drying time of Shellac as not to get brush or overlap marks when brushing?. I've heard you can add Mineral Turps, is this true?.
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4th May 2024, 06:07 PM #2
Rather than brush can you use a rubber?
There is a handy book on polishing known as A Polishers Handbook which I can highly recommendNothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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4th May 2024, 06:13 PM #3
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4th May 2024, 06:35 PM #4
Why not brush it on then flatten it by sanding it back, you can always repeat until you have sealed the surface and are happy to move on to the next stage which in this case is staining?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezTjHkErjx4
You may like this video from the same polisher
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1F3QBrR6e0
Also are you using a good quality brush here's a pic of one that I brought with me from the UK
Polishing Brush.jpg
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4th May 2024, 07:30 PM #5
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4th May 2024, 07:34 PM #6
The stain is under the shellac not over it, apart from a little colour that I add to the shellac to tone it in area's. I do cut back after shellac has dried but it would be made easier without brush/lap marks, mostly lap marks hence my question.
I use flat hake brushes for applying shellac.
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4th May 2024, 07:38 PM #7
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4th May 2024, 07:45 PM #8
Those brushes will not give you the best finish a mop brush like my pic lays on the shellac better because the bristles are different lengths which leaves less marks, they are quite expensive but last years with the right maintenance
Here's a link to a good quality brush French Polishing Mops & Brushes
– Restorers Choice
And this is the company that make the one I have.
Liberon Soft Hair French Polishing Mops 12 – Sprayster
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4th May 2024, 07:55 PM #9
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4th May 2024, 07:58 PM #10
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4th May 2024, 08:07 PM #11
It maybe down to your technique and speed of applying, you don't want a brush which contains too much shellac because that can result in uneven thickness being applied, it's not like painting with a oil based Dulux where on a flat surface the paint will flatten slightly during it's drying period
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4th May 2024, 09:00 PM #12
Its all in the technique of applying shellac on with a brush that gives the wanted result . If your seeing overlap marks then your not putting it on fast enough and then going over it to spread the shellac evenly as you go along. Or your going back over parts before the coat has set. Or maybe it has set and your doing single patchy strokes. You should be trying to lay down a coat and spread it out so it dries as one. Its still just going to look like brush marks. Which doesn't matter because the fine rub back and rubber later will smooth it all out anyway.
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4th May 2024, 09:19 PM #13
I'll have a go at changing my technique somewhat. I've never had this problem before with other shellac finishes I've done. I haven't kept a note of my mix or cut of shellac unfortunately. Also the bottle of Hard Shellac I'm using is a few months out of date I didn't want to use a new bottle for test purposes. With that bottle I'm doing a 50/50 cut.
So its normal to have the odd overlap mark etc?.
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4th May 2024, 09:32 PM #14
I have never kept note of any Cut. I cover the stuff with metho to dissolve it and store it on the shelf like that in a big glass bottle and mix it down thin from there for use.
You would be getting more noticeable brush overlap marks if your using it to thick as well as not applying it right.
edit. I think knowing and describing Cut is of use for being able to describe to someone else exactly what mix your using in writing. But its not the slightest bit usefull, to me anyway , in doing the job.
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5th May 2024, 10:12 AM #15
Wet Edge
You mentioned your doing a large top, so you will need to work across it quickly keeping a continues wet edge to allow the shellac to blend into itself to form one coat, should you yet to one end of the top, but when returning to start another line (or section) at the other end you may no longer have a wet edge this is where overlapping or brush marks can occur. If this is the case you could work the full width of the top but still following the grain in the tops length direction (assuming the width distance is less than the length) this should hopefully help maintain a constant wet edge to work from.
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