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  1. #1
    Jordy3738 Guest

    Default Adding New Veneer To A Table Top

    There's a gentlemen who has a furniture refinishing business next to my cabinet shop. I watched him try to glue a new piece of veneer onto an old dining table top with yellow glue.

    It did not work...The end result looked horrible

    He spread the glue, applied the veneer and placed a piece of 32 mil thick plywood on top. Then he pilled many things like cement blocks and 5 gallon cans of paint to apply pressure while the glue was drying.

    It was a mess...

    He did this because he uses Laquer finish products and he claims that he could not use contact glue because the laquer causes the contact glue to loosen.

    How should he have glued the veneer to the dining table top?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    melbourne
    Age
    89
    Posts
    738

    Default

    Jordy,

    First thing is one should never use contact adhesive to attach veneer. Contact adhesive will always creep and that opens up gaps in the veneer.

    Not totally sure what you mean by yellow glue.

    Traditional way of applying veneer is with hot hide glue and a veneer hammer. It is not a hammer but a form of squeegee. I'm not adept at this and so I use a different method.
    I apply PVA cross linked aliphatic glue normally sold as a water resisitant glue. I apply this to both surfaces to be glued and allow to dry. Apply the coat evenly and when dry it should have a slightly leathery feel. It is also sometimes advisable to coat the unglued side with a fine mist of water which equalises drying and stops the veneer from curling. The two coated surfaces are then brought together and using an ordinary household iron set to linen, and a little pressure, the veneer can be attached. Naturally, since you are aimng to expel air, it is best to start from the centre and work out to the edges. Keep the iron moving slowly and use a firm pressure. That does not mean trying to drive the iron through the work. The veneer will not normally be scorched. Even if it is, the penetration is not far and a gentle application of a sharp scraper should be enough to remove discolouration.
    My advice only covers the very basics. I have not covered the use of veneer tape to bind splits or to bring two edges together. If you need more explanation just ask. One of us will add more detail if required, that's what the forum is about.

    Jedrry
    Every person takes the limit of their own vision for the limits of the world.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,561

    Default

    I've used exactly the method Jerry has described with success. What you call yellow glue is what Jerry has described as X-linked aliphatic. I've used Titebond II, which they recommend in preference to Titebond I for this method.
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