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Thread: Bending Wood
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25th July 2007, 01:50 AM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Bending Wood
I was at Sturt Gallery this evening and in a slack moment the teacher invited us to have a look at their new timber bending device. It is two of those ratchet winches (like fence strainers) that bends the timber around a former after they steam heat it for a couple of hours. The timber they bent was at least 40mm thick and showed no signs of distortion. The timber is heated then placed against a straight piece of about 3mm strap which is as wide as the timber. At the ends of the timber are stops which are exactly the right size so there is no end movement and the timber cannot get any longer when it is bent. The winches attach to the ends of this strap using snatch blocks to double the pulling power, the timber and backing strap are put up against the former and they start winching. the former is about 300-400mm across and they bend the timber around this into a "U" without any distortion at all. Totally amazing, the stops on the ends that the timber fits between stop it growing in length and thus the outside of it ripping apart, the inside compresses and is held in against the former and can't distort either. Remember this is solid timber not laminations built up. Heat and bend, no problems at all.
CHRIS
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25th July 2007, 02:51 AM #2
Gidday Chris
Mate I saw a thing on the idiot box awhile back about Tassie and they showed this old timey town setup and going through they entered this bloody great shed where a fella was doin just that as they had been doin
just like that
for centuries!
Actually not takin the phiss mate just sayin it aint new is all although they may think it is its not... the setup this bloke had was like a bloody great table with wooden rollers along it and a huge barrel the wet steamed timber planks were bought to the barrel locked into place by way of wooden peg like things then the bloke turned a friggin great wheel and the barrel turned the plank moved around the barrel and ended in a U shape just as you say... leave let dry and bobs yer uncle
Cheers!! Great how some things we think are new and whacketty dak are actually ancient and been happenin for donkeys years ehBelieve me there IS life beyond marriage!!! Relax breathe and smile learn to laugh again from the heart so it reaches the eyes!!
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25th July 2007, 10:42 AM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Mini,
You or anyone else didn't happen to take any Pix did you?
We have some leather [say it softly - Ikea] Poang chairs which are a laminated timber with no back legs - a "U" on its side - they rock and are extremely comfortable. Have alway wondered if it could be done out of solid timber without a series of kerfing cuts.
Regards,
Bob
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25th July 2007, 12:47 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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Dingo, one thing we all know, there is nothing new in this world. The only new thing here was I had never seen it done like this. Bob, if I remember I will take a camera next week and get some photos.
CHRIS
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25th July 2007, 12:54 PM #5
Cross posting there Chris... as I said I wasnt having a go or takin the phiss out of you sorry if it came out that way it wasnt intended
ahem...
Gidday Bob
Firstly it would depend on the timber specie you want to use... some specie are more adept at bending without splitting cracking etc than others
Second on the radia of the U you want to create
It is easy enough to form a curve rather than a U by steam and then on a form bend it to a sweeping curve
As Ramps found recently when he did the stems on his canoe out of Jarrah the tighter the curve the less likely timber such as a hardwood like Jarrah will bend to fit... he found Jarrah broke at the radius he wanted so he tried Sheoak and it bent perfectly to the form
The Jarrah will bend... but will more likely than not break on a more forced curve than a sweeping bend
Another way to successfully bend timber is with the use of laminates of hardwood... so make some 1/4in or less strips longer than what your final length will be make a form this can be as simple as some ply with blocks spaced around the curve you want... and steam the laminates then clamp them to the formwork and let dry... you will get some degree of springback but you can minimise the impact of this on the final product by making the blocks slightly inside the line of the form
You could try a simple test for yourself on some timber you have that you want to use by doing the following
Make a steam box about 5ft long... make it out of 1in x 6in Pinus crapiata... at one end make a door and hinge it... at the other leave it open and get some rags to stopper it... if this wasnt just as a field test we would create a better end than this but for now for this test just stuff the end with rags... at 6in intervals along the sides drill holes either side large enough to slot some dowel through... your timber will lay on this while being steamed.
Now you need a source of steam... I use a bloody great stew pot I nicked from my sis's partner when the hospital she was working at was having a clearout... and then a heat source the barbie is actually good enough take of the grill so you sit the steamer directly on the flames... so now you need to get the steam to the box... so hoist the box onto a stand you can make out of whatever is on hand just so one end is slightly higher than the other and about 6in of the pots top... you need to have a slope so the condensation goes down the box toward the ragged end where you have drilled a hole for it to escape... connect the top to the box by way of a small hose fixed to both the top and box (drill a hole and slide the hose into the top of the lid down just above the water level... you want steam not water... and use one of those small hose clamps at the box end)
Okay connected up? your ready to go!... arc up the barbie get the water to burbling so steams going nuts then stick some lengths of varying thickness timbers inside the box and stuff the end go have a beer... depending on the specie and the thicknesses some will take some time others will be pretty quick... now come back get some heavy gloves on and stand to one side and unplug the bung end standing clear of the steam (IT WILL BURN so stay clear) take out the floppiest peice and move it quickly to the form and clamp it up... if need be have someone else stick the bung back in as your gonna have to move to get the clamps done before the timber sets
And there you have it
This should tell you what specie you have that will bend to the curve you want it should also tell you the best thickness to use to bend to the curve you want... you might get a good surprise as to which timber specie will bend and conform to the mould
Important note here... STEAM CAN BURN... so use your head and think safe use thick gloves stand to one side of the box ANYTIME you or someone else is opening it and have the mould set up right near the box say less than 4ft away so you can take the timber out and to the mould.
Get back with your resultsBelieve me there IS life beyond marriage!!! Relax breathe and smile learn to laugh again from the heart so it reaches the eyes!!
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25th July 2007, 01:01 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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BTW they were bending Oak, which is fairly tough.
CHRIS
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25th July 2007, 02:13 PM #7Believe me there IS life beyond marriage!!! Relax breathe and smile learn to laugh again from the heart so it reaches the eyes!!
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25th July 2007, 03:23 PM #8Senior Member
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Bob
see http://www.woodworkingseminars.com/index.php?paged=2
a 1 hr seminar on wood bending
regards
woodcutta
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25th July 2007, 11:15 PM #9Novice
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Thanks for the link woodcutta. First step towards that steam bent rocking chair ive always wanted to build
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26th July 2007, 09:44 AM #10GOLD MEMBER
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Mini, Dingo and Woodcutta,
Many thanks, appreciate your time and responses.
Dingo, have copied and saved your instructions.
Woodcutta, have bookmarked the podcast and will download it next month - getting near my Bigpuddle limit and don't wish to add to their CEO's retirement package.
Regards,
Bob
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