Thread: Block plane question for all

Yep your memory is good Kev, bevel up.

Kevin, can you post a picture of the plane ?

Bevel up or down depends on the model of plane - most brands made both bevel up & bevel down models. If the bed angle is very shallow - around 12 degrees from horizontal - 'tis bevel UP, if the bed is around 25 degrees, its usually bevel DOWN and the blade has a steeper bevel to its edge. Take a look at the Lee Valley web site under 'planes'.

The mouth opening can also cause problems, keep it to a minimum otherwise the plane will try to take too big a bite & choke on the shaving.

Kevin,
a typical block plane uses a BEVEL UP blade bedded at 25°
a low angle block also uses a BEVEL UP blade bedded somewhere between 12° to 15°

Typically a block plane is sharpened with a 25° primary bevel with a steeper microbevel, giving an effective cutting angle of
37 to 45° in a low angle block, and
50 to 55° in a standard block plane (I'm a bit tired tonight, so my maths may be off)

if you mount the blade bevel DOWN two things happen,
1. the cutting edge is unsurported where it exits the sole
2. the relief angle behind the blade is insufficient -- the effect is similar to the plane riding on the blade bevel rather than the sole.

there's also an issue of is the sole flat enough


hope this helps

Thanks for your advice Ian - it's what I needed.

A photo of the little plane is yours to look at

www.flickr.com/photos/moojebing

The plane is marked 'Stanley No 110' and 'Made in Eng' which I suppose means made in England.

It wouldn't stop its annoying rusting. So I cleaned it yet again and painted it with a spray can of Kilrust, colour black. That and silicon spray on the unpainted bits stopped old father Rust dead in his tracks.

Thanks again, Ian

Kevin

Thanks Claw - I appreciate your advice.

Regards,

Kevin

Thanks, Bsrlee - I appreciate your reply.

Regards,

KevinB

my ones bevel up.
And you should avoid using silicon sprays any where near wood, it can affect your work when you go to finish it.

Hi KorDes, thanks for your interest and yes, I keep the silicon spray well away from work in process. I find that using silicon carefully is an effective barrier against rusting. I go through my tools before winter and give each a zap with the spray and a wipe with a cloth.

Regards,

Kevin

As far as my knowledge on block planes go they are all bevel up (normaly) thats one of the features that makes them a block plane.

Originally Posted by Claw Hama

As far as my knowledge on block planes go they are all bevel up (normaly) thats one of the features that makes them a block plane.

Really?





Regards from Perth

Derek

Does that mean my knowledge is poor Derek? I am sure you can make/use them the other way but I thought that bevel up was one of the features that makes them a block plane.

Hmmm......what defines a block plane. I thought it was a plane with a low angle, bevel up blade that could (or was) used to plane butcher's blocks.
But that's the bigger ones really.....did the smaller block planes acquire their name that way?

Originally Posted by seanz

Hmmm......what defines a block plane. I thought it was a plane with a low angle, bevel up blade that could (or was) used to plane butcher's blocks.
But that's the bigger ones really.....did the smaller block planes acquire their name that way?

Seanz - I think the butcher's block attribution is a furphy which has been promoted by LV (who are usually more rigorous in their historical research) and many others. If I wanted to plane a buther's block flat, the last tool I would reach for is a pathetic little thing with b*gg*r-all heft. Trying to hold onto the damn thing for a long planing session would not be anyone's idea of fun, either! Have you ever looked at the average butchers' block - most of em have never seen ANY sort of tool after the crosscut saw, in their entire lives, (or is that just because only wood-butchers know what 'block' planes are really for? )

They are probably called 'block' planes 'cos they were originally made up out of a little block of wood left over from something else. They have no magical powers, in my view, other than being convenient little things for one-handed use. For any serious planing I prefer something I can hang onto comfortably.

Yeah, I know, I'm a grumpy old nitpicker, but it worries me that myths get picked up & repeated until they become truths. LV also reckon "butt" chisels are so-named because they are used for making butt hinge mortises. ??? I would think the more obvious source of the name is that they are just 'butts' or stumps left over after the chisel has been well-used....

Harumph...

PS added later: I meant to mention that if I WERE going to smooth a butcher's block with a plane (which is highly unlikely given that a chainsaw or other powered tool would be infinitely more practical!), I would want to try the plane supposedly made for the job, i.e. a Stanley #64. However, Patrick doesn't seem to think it is a great piece of kit, so on the other hand....