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24th January 2012, 12:17 AM #16New Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2012
- Location
- adelaide
- Posts
- 4
Thank you all for your help, after watching some videos on fine woodwork and taking on what you guys have mentioned im going to redo the cabinet but this time I will use a loose rabbet join with no glue to hide the expansion gaps in the sides and use the rubber tube method on the top and bottom to hold it in place. I will make the top too big for the base and just route the edge directly into the top so I dont need a frame. unless I see something else that looks nice in my searching. I will attach it with 4 dowles or another join and minimal/no glue. The only problem now will be getting all the wood flat and square again, last time I was just using a drum sander and it took a long time. what a bitch...
On a side note how much should one expect to pay for 20mm x 120mm ( or something similar) per meter blackwood or another hardwood?
Thanks again for the input. Ill post up some photos nest year... haha
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24th January 2012 12:17 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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- Advertising world
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24th January 2012, 11:23 AM #17Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Vevey, Switzerland
- Posts
- 407
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25th January 2012, 06:46 PM #18
If you are interested in the Fine Woodworking DVD archive, they currently have the latest edition on special for US$ 99 instead of $150. See here.
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27th January 2012, 01:06 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jan 2004
- Location
- St George area, Sydney
- Age
- 66
- Posts
- 640
Seeing this, I just ordered a set while the dollar is strong, Add $13.40 for postage and its a great deal
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27th January 2012, 01:45 PM #20
Mitch
as noted by IanW what you have is the result of trying to constrain natural timber expansion and contraction
your piece is basically not recoverable, without a huge amount of rebuilding
However, you should be able to recover most of the wood to use on other projects
A note for other builders
using biscuit joints to attach panels to frames really only works where the panel is made of ply or veneered MDF/partical board, with solid wood panels you should stick to frame and panel construction, with the grain running in the long direction of the panelregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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