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Thread: circular saw
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14th December 2006, 07:58 AM #16Member
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I was considering the Festool TS75 Circular Saw with Straight Edge but at close to $1500 its pretty pricy.
How would say an Ausangle, EZsmart etc straight edge and a decent quality circular saw compare to the Festool?
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14th December 2006, 10:16 PM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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Ausangle—an owner's experience.
Notice I did not say "user".
Back in the 50s/60s if a farmer on the Darling Downs owned a Lanz tractor people would say "Must've been drunk at the Brisbane Ekka." Well, I was not drunk at a TWW Show so I can't use that excuse.
The basic Ausangle is a protractor with a guided saw carriage. Without extensions you can cut 300mm wide and each extension adds 750mm of cutting width.
Problem 1: With one extension it cuts 1050mm, but the commonest requirement is to crosscut a 1200mm sheet. With 2 extensions there is 700mm overhanging the sheet. Just gets in the way.
These extensions are attached with steel dowels locked by 5mm grubscrews as you see in the photo. The thickness of the aluminium tapped for these screws is 2.8mm. 1mm of engagement is lost through the conical point of the screw, so the screw engages in barely 1.8mm of aluminium, a little over one and a half full threads.
Problem 2: Repeatedly inserting and removing tiny screws in soft metal. If you don't tighten enough, they vibrate out. Find them? I couldn't. If you tighten them enough the thread in the aluminium strips.
Problem 3: In the photo see how the outer end is clamped with a little plate. Instead of sliding, this plate is locked with 2 screws. To move it you have to turn the device over with the sliding saw hanging on the other end. Very inconvenient, very awkward. You also need a low profile clamp if your saw motor is to clear.
Problem 4: I used the device once only as a router guide. The aluminium carriage left a broad black stripe across the workpiece. Completely unacceptable if the job is to be clear finished.
If somebody wants an Ausangle I have one for sale. Any reasonable offer.
No, on second thoughts, forget "reasonable".Brian
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15th December 2006, 01:44 AM #18Senior Member
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Hi all
Thanks for that, I thought it had a hidden clamp under it like the festool ( that is what the trady had) I think I will keep looking! just saved me $400 thanks.
Any users / owners of the EZsmart out there? that can comment on them
Thanks
Celeste
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15th December 2006, 02:15 AM #19
Celeste,
I don't own the EZ system myself, I use a Rockler self-clamping straight edge with the clamps built in underneath so they don't inhibit the saw. But if you want to learn everything about the EZ, follow this link:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/forumdisplay.php?f=26Cheers,
Bob
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29th May 2012, 10:58 PM #20New Member
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The New Ausangle
Dear Brian,
Thank you for your comments and photos.
I have listened to your concerns, together with requests from many people wishing to use a cordless saw in the Ausangle. I do appreciate feedback from our customers. I took this information on board and redesigned the Ausangle saw guide to meet the customers' needs.
The Ausangle now cuts up to 450mm with no extensions: with one extension you can now cut up to 1250 mm, two extensions cut up to 2050 mm, and with three extensions it cuts up to 2850 mm.
In the redesign, the extensions are now connected using a connecting-plate found on the underside of the rail, rather than using connecting rods. This improves the rigidity.
The clamping tag is now made of nylon. It slides easily for quick adjustment along the rail.
When sliding the AusAngle's alloy plate across a work piece -- if you wish to avoid marking the work piece -- then a strip of masking tape may be applied to the underside of the leading edge of the carriage. This is a common technique among tradesmen.
Other new features:
1) Redesigned rail connection detail
2) Nylon adjustable clamping tag
3) Longer rails to accommodate longer cuts
4) Accepts both power and cordless saws
5) New reversible design for use by left and right-handed people
6) Electric saw is attached by clamps that can move left or right along the clamping bar to allow easy fitting of your saw.
Please visit Aus Angle and follow video links
regards
Nick Barnes
(AusAngle inventor)
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30th May 2012, 12:17 PM #21
I, like many others cannot control a circular saw by hand to cut a straight line. Over the years I have the chance to try and buy different things.
A straight edge clamped X distance from blade works but, can be difficult to clamp in correct spot and is there enough material to support the saw and will it clear any clamps. If the edge is on the motor side of the plate, (ideal) there is support for the saw but clamps are likely to foul. If the edge is on the other side if you are trimming there is little or no support for the saw. Repositioning the guide with two clamps and making sure it is in the right spot is time consuming.
A guide like the Tru-Grip does away with the problems of the clamps fouling as it has a low profile. You still need to make sure it is in the right position. Can really only be used for cuts 90 degrees from the edge. On thin materials the clamps can cause bowing. Easier to set up as only one clamp but can still be hard to get in the right spot. Once you start using it though it is not regretted but clamps only come to a certain length. (I think 900mm).
The Festool system while expensive does make setting up and cutting a breeze and reduces splintering in ply and laminates. It is only a matter of two marks on the cut line - one at either end, put the rail on the marks, clamp if required and cut. Cutting at an angle to the edge is not a problem and as the clamps (if used) are under the rail the motor does not hit them. The rails can be joined if required. I use two 1400mm to trim door edges. The only draw back, and it probably applies to the others as well is if you are handling small pieces.
The smallest trim I do is about 3mm off a door edge which leaves a waste piece of less than 1mm the length of the edge.
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30th May 2012, 04:16 PM #22
Hi Celeste
I will tell you what we use.
We have a strip of MDF about say 500 mm wide. On top of that we glued another strip say 150 mm wide a bit off centre.
We ran the saw down along the centre strip and cut off the mdf that was wider than the sole of the saw. On the other side of the centre strip we ran the saw again, this time with the narrow side of the saw.
We place the edge of the "shooting Board" on the line we want to cut and clamp it down then run the saw along the centre strip.
Never have any problem cutting straight and the board can be made at any length.
If my explanation is unclear, I will post a picture of the board in use.
Cheers
WolffieEvery day is better than yesterday
Cheers
SAISAY
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30th May 2012, 04:46 PM #23Senior Member
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30th May 2012, 04:48 PM #24
I tried to draw it in Sketch-Up
Cheers
WolffieEvery day is better than yesterday
Cheers
SAISAY
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30th May 2012, 04:58 PM #25Senior Member
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I was thinking the guide piece would be glued on top (to run your saw against) if that makes sense ?
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30th May 2012, 06:33 PM #26
As a owner and user of the Festool TS55 plunge saw, I think it was worth every penny I payed for it. Yes it was a bit pricey, but at the end of the day it did an extremely good job for what it was designed for. It has easily payed for itself by the amount of time I have saved using it compared to how I previously did things.
There are a few imitations out know, Makita, Dewalt, Bosch and some other cheaper brands have come out with their own versions. But they are all made in China and just dont have the high degree of quality you can expect from a Festool tool.
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30th May 2012, 06:51 PM #27
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30th May 2012, 10:23 PM #28
I use a pro-grip, just clamp it 5 inches from the cut line and my dewalt circular cuts perfectly.... I do like Wolffie's jig though, the bottom piece would act as a zero clearance insert and reduce tear out on the top of your workpiece....
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