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Results 31 to 42 of 42
Thread: Dado blades
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19th August 2007, 09:51 PM #31
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I'll go out to the shed tomorrow and check exactly how deep the 6" dado set cuts.
I used it to cut the half laps and dados when building my work bench table legs out of 90mm ash. From memory, it cut at least 45mm deep, but I will check.
When do you need to go much deeper? I dunno.
Jeff
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19th August 2007 09:51 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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20th August 2007, 12:22 PM #32
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further to my question earlier, I just measured my shaft!!!!!!!
Jet Supersaw with sliding table. It has a shoulder for single blade 30mm diameter by about 3 mm wide then a 16mm diameter by about 10mm wide with spanner flats section, then the threaded section has about 7 or 8mm left once the nut is on flush with end of the shaft. So if I bought a 30 mm hole-diameter, dado set and was able to get a spacer for shaft then the max width would be about 20 or 21 mm. Is that sufficient for most needs?
Actually I just thought a washer would have to go on, to hold spacer, so it'd only be about 18 or 19mm.
Someone mentioned earlier that a shaft extension is available. Does anyone else know for sure if such a thing exists? Yes I know you can get them in THOSE shops!!!! Is there a site to start looking for one.
What would the safety be like with such a thing?"World's oldest kid"
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20th August 2007, 01:52 PM #33
I also have an Infinity Dadonator 8" and think it is great...I am not fussed about 6" or 8", I just like the shiny metal and the name "Dadonator...I'll be back".
Since light travels faster than sound,
People appear bright until you hear them speak.
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20th August 2007, 03:07 PM #34
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20th August 2007, 03:22 PM #35
James K
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It might be easiest to call Carbatec and ask them the question, munruben.
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20th August 2007, 03:37 PM #36
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20th August 2007, 08:14 PM #37
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Munruben
Hope your arm heals well and you get back into the swing of things.
Suggest good therapy is a new TS plus the dado blades.
Jeff
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21st August 2007, 10:03 AM #38
John, I just brought an 8" Freud SD208 set back from the US (yesterday) and gave it a test on my TSC10HB. Pure magic. No issue with startup load and the bottom of the test cut was practically unscored. I only tried it with one chipper (three-eights of an inch cut) but I think the TSC10HB will allow 13/16 max. $94 USD. Comes with shims etc. What you do to your arm?
1st in Woodwork (1961)
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21st August 2007, 12:28 PM #39
I'm certainly no expert, but I wouldn't be doing that with a dado blade. I have no experience with stepped shafts on TSs, but I'd be more inclined to only put a dado on the narrower part of the shaft (but only if they make this size dado). I wouldn't want to use a spacer.
Your TS manual should tell you exactly what size dado to use, if any.
And yes, like someone else said, I can put the full width of the 8" dado (13/16" from memory) if I leave the flange off the arbour and just use the nut. Arbour size = dado hole size."... it is better to succeed in originality than to fail in imitation" (Herman Melville's letters)
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21st August 2007, 02:05 PM #40
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Soren posted about his arbor extension nut for his contractors saw in post 6 as follows:
"I have a contractors saw, and have / had the same problem.
In my case, the abour is 5/8" but there is a flange at the base of the arbour which is 1".
I have had a 'long' nut milled, which has a 5/8" thread inside and is then barring the last 1/4" milled to a 1" diameter. What in effect this does, is to allow me to put a 1" abour hole blade into the saw, and as the 'long' nut is about 1 1/2" long, it enables me to use a dado blade, where without this nut, the arbour is not long enough, ie only 1 thread extends past the dado blade. With the extension nut, I can firmly mount the blade."
That may help you.
Peter.
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21st August 2007, 03:17 PM #41
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Changing Arbour Diameter On Dado Blades
I know that most are talking length of arbor in this discussion, but I will mention what I had done as it may help someone.
I had purchased a Freud 8" Dado blade set for a 5/8 arbor. My table saw had 3/4 arbor.
I had Chapman Saws drill out the blades and then they resharpened them to true them up.
Of course they are sharpened to the new centre and so are naturally true to the new hole.
I could not find a set in Home Depot Hawaii with the 3/4 Arbor so settled for the 5/8. Even for the $50 dollars for the modifications I was well in front at the time.
CheersBrian
Creator of Fine Firewood
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21st August 2007, 03:31 PM #42
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