Thread: Deep cuts with a mitre saw

Perhaps the demonstration was done on a Radial Arm Saw. They are similar in some ways but the radial arm saw can have the depth adjusted very finely and accurately.

he may have been using a compound mitre saw..... some of them have some sort of depth stop thingy.

this sort of thing is easily done with an electric hand saw and a guide.

cheers

Originally Posted by slepax

Hi Guys,

I need to make some deep cuts to join two beams together. I remember seeing someone on TV do it with a mitre saw, he just marked the length and depth he needs then made several cuts with the mitre saw and removed the excess manually using a chisel. Easy!

I went to Bunnings today and checked some of the mitre saws they have there, but it seems none of them have the ability to lock going down to a certain depth. They all can be locked at the top or at the bottom, not for a certain level.

Am I missing something here? I'm pretty sure they guy on TV used a mitre saw for the job. Why are those different?

Thanks.

Ronen

Hi Ronen

Here is a mod that I copied and made for my Ryobi SCMS that was posted some time ago. It is adjustable and I use it all the time.


http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ead.php?t=6743

Originally Posted by slepax

Hi Guys,

I need to make some deep cuts to join two beams together. I remember seeing someone on TV do it with a mitre saw, he just marked the length and depth he needs then made several cuts with the mitre saw and removed the excess manually using a chisel. Easy!

I went to Bunnings today and checked some of the mitre saws they have there, but it seems none of them have the ability to lock going down to a certain depth. They all can be locked at the top or at the bottom, not for a certain level.

Am I missing something here? I'm pretty sure they guy on TV used a mitre saw for the job. Why are those different?

Thanks.

Ronen

Ronen, if you have a circular saw just set the depth on that and run it through a heap of times, you only need to be accurate on each outside cut. This is the only way to check out timber on site quickly and accurately as far as I am concerned, you won't find many carpenters around that only do the outside cuts and chisel out the whole lot. The multiple cuts make checking out with a chisel very easy.

Found it.

Apparently he uses a Blue Bosch, nothing I will be able to afford in the near future...

I have a Milwalkee SCMS and it has a depth adjusting screw (very handy when you want to use a jig for crown molding, etc) Although it is not displayed as an adjustible feature with a knob etc. It is there so you don't cut through the bed or any jig. I use it frequently. It is a set screw (usually with a locking nut) aside or under the arm of the saw.


Another suggestion would be to use the hand held "Skil" saw(Circular Saw) Adjust the foot for desired depth. Make several passes and clean out the ridges with a Chisel or a Saws-All (depending on how large the joint)

Or.... you can take a Mitre Saw and stick a chunk of wood under the swing arm (use hot glue) to limit the depth of the cut, then procede as you will.

I have a DeWalt. On th eright side there is a lever that can be flipped into a position that hits an adjustment screw. The adjustment screw allows the saw to be stopped at almost any depth.

Thanks for the info guys.

I went to Bunnings yesterday (several times) and found that some of the cheap end machines do have this feature. Ryobi and Ozito have it in some of their models, and almost all of GMC's sliding mitre saws have this option.

I think I'll go for the GMC LSMS210, suits my budget and has all I need.