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Thread: My doors aren't flat.
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29th August 2004, 09:53 PM #1Intermediate Member
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My doors aren't flat.
I recently made two small doors (about 350*300) out of lining board, with a frame around the front of them. After I constructed them, I noticed they don't sit flat, due to bows in the wood. Has anybody got any ideas about flattening them, without placing a giant wieght on them for a week?
Hellacopter1
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29th August 2004 09:53 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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29th August 2004, 11:17 PM #2
Theres no easy fix if the timber is bowed.
If they are just twisted you may be able to fix it depending on how the frames are made.
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30th August 2004, 01:51 AM #3Intermediate Member
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G'day Echidna
Let's say for instance that they are just twisted. What would be the best method of straightening them:confused:
Thanx, Hellacopter1
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30th August 2004, 09:18 PM #4
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30th August 2004, 09:34 PM #5Originally Posted by Hellacopter 1
P
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30th August 2004, 10:17 PM #6
Biting, I think that is a bit extreme. 10 days should do it.
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31st August 2004, 01:03 AM #7Intermediate Member
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Originally Posted by echnidna
Thanx, Hellacopter1
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31st August 2004, 01:09 AM #8Intermediate Member
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Originally Posted by bitingmidge
Hellacopter1
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31st August 2004, 09:51 AM #9
Hellacopter,
Perhaps this unfortunate experience may encourage you to use different joints that are stronger and less likely to move.
Careful selection of the timber beforehand is important. Was the timber you used for the frame bowed before you made the door?
One byproduct of spending more time on joints is that you are more particular with your selection of timber.
Give the other joints a go, you will run into a couple of minor problems during the learning phase but it is worth it in the long run.- Wood Borer
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31st August 2004, 02:19 PM #10
Hellacopter
Cut the frames off. Use the remainder (which is probably bowed) as the centre panel for your new doors. Try and flatten these as much as possible (belt sander or handplane). Build a new frame for each out of thicker stock. Cut a dado (groove) along the inside middle of each frame section. Join these together to make your frame (mitred, biscuits, dowels, mortice and tenon - whatever). Now, whatever you do, DON"T glue the panels into the frame dados. Let them lie free. The timber panels can move a little and it should not affect the door much. The difference between this design and your original one is simply that the door frames are not attached to the centre panels.
Good luck.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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31st August 2004, 02:46 PM #11Originally Posted by Hellacopter 1Bob Willson
The term 'grammar nazi' was invented to make people, who don't know their grammar, feel OK about being uneducated.
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31st August 2004, 04:01 PM #12
The missus back then Bob?
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31st August 2004, 05:18 PM #13
Better start running NOW Peter, I'm just about to show her your answer.
Bob Willson
The term 'grammar nazi' was invented to make people, who don't know their grammar, feel OK about being uneducated.
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31st August 2004, 07:35 PM #14
Its quite possible to pull the twist out of a simple butt jointed door.
The gluline between the stiles and rails is very weak being an end to long grain joint,
1. Lay the door flat and fracture all the butt joints with a hammer and block of wood. The object is to fracture the glue not demolish the door so dont belt it too hard.
2.Nail some blocks to the floor and a wall so that the bottom of the door and one top
corner can sit in them and act as restraints.
3. Pull the free corner of the door so that it is twisted the same amount but in the opposite direction.
4. While its held there drill two 3/8" holes straight through the stile into the rail and knock some dowels into the holes (with plenty of glue)
5. Do this to all 4 corners of the door. Sometimes you can get the twist out with only 1 or 2 sets of dowels, if this happens dowel the remaining corners anyway.
6. After the glue sets trim the dowels back and sand the edges.