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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,871

    Default

    Thanks Eddie. That was very interesting. Did you do that for your students?

    Here are four markers. From left to right: 1:5 .. 6 .. 7 .. 8



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    686

    Default

    Hi Ian,

    I found a mistake in that last video.

    I'd argue that there's a difference between show and carcase dovetails. Trade training is outlined in the movie below.

    See if you can spot the differences in beauty/aesthetics between the two.

    I'd go with WW's 1:7 comment, but strength dovetails are slightly wider and closer packed than show dovetails. Therein lies the difference.

    Cheers,

    eddie

    Derek: Saw your comments as I was posting. I did this for someone on another forum who was asking similar questions. Pictures tell a thousand words.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Vic
    Posts
    201

    Default Old stuff is good

    Hi guys

    it is always good to check out the antique shops for the detail of dovetails, and all that kind of thing, as the old guys have been doing it right for centuries we should try to emulate the best that is out there. Just a perspective I think.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    perth
    Age
    79
    Posts
    144

    Default Dovetail joints, pitch of

    Thanks to everyone who replied.

    I've learned a lot.

    Kind thoughts,

    KevinB

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sealevel NC
    Posts
    150

    Default tools for tails

    I say that if if the angle looks good on paper it will look good in the joint.
    I also agree that modern glues make an already strong joint even stronger.
    Once I found an angle that looked pretty, I made some tools to keep it.
    The ebony piece has the same angles in the ends as the bevel guage to chase the scribe down the side of the work at a 90. The maple bevel guage takes a pencil line well visible. Flip it over and you've got the spacing correct for the other edge of the board and the other ends.
    The little knife cleans up after the saw.
    The wood is satin wood.
    I'm both dyslexic and paranoid. I keep thinking I'm following someone.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    perth
    Age
    79
    Posts
    144

    Default

    Thanks Rightend.

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