Thread: Drying sticks to use for handles

Easy, collect sticks that are already dry. Then you can avoid all the ones that are going to split as they dry and choose the ones you like the look of. By the way 8% is bone dry as far as wood is concerned, any drier and the cells will begin to disintegrate.

Originally Posted by licklegreen

I am a ceramicist here in Adelaide and I am hoping to make some handles using small branches and sticks from eucalyptus trees and other natives.

What are the handles to be used for?
If the gizmos that the handles will be used on need to take a significant load then small branches might not be the best. Small branches contain mostly sap wood so will usually be weaker than mature wood. They will also decay quicker than mature wood. That's why you rarely see sticks used for hammer or axe handles or knives etc. I assume that since you are working with ceramics high loads will not be an issue but if you want things to last for generations then this might change your mind? OTOH I have used dead small branches direct from trees for small pate/butter/cheese knives and they worked just fine using an epoxy glue to hold them in place but I don't expect them to become heirloom products

I am wondering what would be the quickest way to cure greenwood for this purpose. I don't have time to wait for them to air dry and apparently this will only dry to 8% moisture?

I see you are in adelaide. Air dry in adelaide will for most of the year be more like 11-12% so drying them to 8% MC will be kind of pointless.

Thanks for the replies guys. I really do have very limited knowledge of such things, only what I have been reading today to be honest.
The pots that they will be used for weigh 1-2 kg. I will search for some already dry branches but fear they won't be strong enough. Is it possible to harden the wood somehow?
Sorry I am a complete novice.

Have you met anyone who is working with sticks/branches already? That's my source for offcuts to use as handles for files, branding irons, etc.
As tool handles, I would not be terribly concerned about using green wood.
If it should split, so what? Make another one. In fact, make a dozen and use a few, let the others dry.
I doubt if you work where wooden tool handles will rot while you watch.
I suspect that ceramics can get to be about as messy as clay sculpting or stone carving. I wipe the dust off the handles with a wet rag and keep going.

Outdoors under cover and out of the heat, most woods dry to an equilibrium moisture content of 8 - 12%. A 40-50mm plank ought to be ready for use in 12-18 months. Indoors in service with dry winter air, such as we have here, that can drop again to 4-5% MC. The birch that I'm making kitchen sticks from is about 6-8%MC.
The stock is 40mm x 150mm x 2m. In that, I find anywhere from 50mm to 150mm splits in the ends. At $3 each, no concerns.

Good Morning Karl

The timber industry traditionally dries timber to 12% for general use; furniture grade timber for air-conditioned space (ie office fitout) is dried to 8%.

The characteristcs of timber - both appearance and strength - vary tremendously with the species of tree. Some have major differences between sapwood and heartwood, others do not.

Have you talked to other ceramicists? What have they found suitable? Perhaps you will just have to experiment. I have made tool handles from fruit wood - apple, apricot, cherry, peach - all quite decorative and quite strong.

For drying you could experiment with a microwave at absolute minimum setting for a long time. The risk in drying too fast is that you will burst the cellular structure of the timber. Ditto, a very low conventional oven - say 40% - with fan.



Fair Winds

Graeme

Try a dehydrater like the type used for drying fruit etc, you can get them of ebay, I use one for drying worthless wood prior to casting in resin.

Hi Karl,

I have dried timber in the microwave. The procedure is very simple, you put it in the microwave, give 30-60 seconds on full power, take the timber out, when it is cool you do it again. Repeat till timber is dry, usually five to ten times. Ive never measured the finished moisture but have always let the timber equilibrate with the atmosphere for at least a day before using. The procedure works well. Ive had a little surface cracking on Cypress Pine, and none on Olive, Cotoneaster or Apple. I havent done thicknesses of more than two inches. I say try it to see if it will work for your particular timber.