Thread: CCA treated drying sticks?

iv never had a problem using them.

I have heard it said that it is best to use the same species rack stick as the timber being stacked, I usually cut sticks out of all the "waste" pieces, anybody else heard this?
Peter

Use the same species as you're stacking or you'll end up with sticker stain. Silky is very prone to it, even with plain pine, let alone pine with a dye in it.

Having said that, the stain generally only affects the outer mm or two, so it's likely to be planed out.

Peter, I've heard the same thing too. I tend to use what I have so I don't subscribe to it or refute it.

Having said this I've heard the world is flat and also heard the Pope is a Catholic??? somethings you hear are wrong and some are right, who knows which is which until you give 'em a whirl?

I haven't had trouble with silky staining silky when using SO stickers or even hardwood stickers too??? but I've only done stickered out about 260lm of 5x1 and about 1.5 cube of slabs - not a lot.

Best to use the same species where possible or something that is similar.

We had some California Redwood slabs stickered with either Cypress or H/wood, can't remember now and the slabs had to have 5 to 10mm removed from each side just to get rid of the line left from the stickers whereas the boards that were milled from the same log which were stickered with C/Redwood had no visible lines left in the timber after the first pass through the thicknesser.

Is this what you mean by using the same species? I'm desperate for sticks here!. Presumably they should always be dry too, which is half the trouble. You can see why I'm no longer married

It might be one of those things where it depends on the species, time of year, dry/wet sticks, the surface roughness of the cut timber, planetary alignment, the SOI, the s&p 500, and any number of factors, it is something to consider tho, u dont want to be taking 5 or 10mm of your timber just to get rid of sticker stain

I have had sticker stain in some mango which was cut and stacked in winter using wet mango sticks but not so much in summer, if I have wet sticks and I want them a bit dryer (at least on the surface) I lay them out in the sun rotate them for a couple of days, might not be much buts it a bit better than wet stick on wet slab

Timbertalk, hope it's not raining at your place like it was here today -



6 mins - 30mm... you'll be wanting to get to that drier quick-smart

Can problems be minimised using mdf a stickers.

Or would too much moisture come from the green timber causing the mdf to swell too much.

Just a thought.

I have some dry silky to stack. Do you think mdf would be ok for that?

Stuart J.

G'day All.
Sticker stain is a problem, not only for the around woodie, but also for we large timber producers.

In our efforts to remove sticker stain from our T&G flooring, we have tried it all.

there is no one fix for it.
sticks the Same specie as the wood being dried makes no difference.

MDF doesn't work either.

If you look closely at your wood, you will see that the wood under the stick is lighter than the wood between the sticks. There will be a darker section right where the stick touched the wood. So, the staining is between the sticks. this is caused (we assume) by extractives from the wood reacting with heat, moisture, etc. QLD DPI has been trying to find a solution to sticker stain for the last 20 years. So far, still no answer.

The only thing we found that works 75% of the time is to machine sticks with an hour glass profile and then lay them on the wood sideways (hour glass on its side) this gives less contact with the wood and allows airflow under the stick.

If you find an answer. you will make a killing selling it to the manufacturers of hardwood products.

wouldn't dipping the sticks in paint and letting it dry first fix the problem totally

Allan, that is serious rain - I thought the worst (for the year..... for the century) was behind us. We are drying out now, just as well as that dryer is not accessible till my new shed is built (slab down next week with any luck).
Regarding stickers, my only thought for a solution, a pain in the ass perhaps, but might help is re-stacking after, say, three months, using slightly different spacing. I don't think painted sticks will make any difference because the wood in contact with them will still be in a different environment (light, moisture, oxygen etc) than the rest of the board.

Glock, Do u find sticker stain worse, better, no difference between kiln drying and air drying? I am assuming that you KD your timber for your T&G flooring and your off the saw boards would be 25ish mm thick.
Have u seen the same sticker stain probs with air drying slabs?
With the hour glass sticks it would seem that allowing air in under the stick reduces the stain problem... so if the sticks and slabs/boards were a smooth finish and nice and flat the problem might be worse when compared with a rough surface on a board/slab and stick???
A rough washboard cut on a board/slab might not be such a bad thing or better still grooves on the suface (top and btm) of the stick might allow enuff air under the stick to at least help prevent sticker stain, also narrow sticks and having the grooves across the width of the stick???
What does everyone else think?
Peter.

Originally Posted by timbertalk

Does anyone know if it is safe to use treated pine drying sticks? Safe as in not safe for me, safe for the timber? I am worried about getting greenish bands on some silky oak boards I need to stack, I'm all out of hardwood sticks.

Cant give you any garantee's , but I have used some on a pile of hardwood boards without any problems , pine might be another story , its a lot wetter and and quite a bit slower to dry compared to hardwood . Cheers MM