Thread: EurekaZone EZ Smart Guide System - A cheaper way

Originally Posted by greenie512

Come on lets face it your hooked Dino .

Here's a product request/critisism - I'd like to see the length of the guide, a "saw plate" longer at each end. Yep even longer to cart around but when you cut through the board your saw would still be flat on the guide.

Cheers - Phil

Done.
We offer now a 64" guide rail. Just for that.
The best combination is : one 64" one 50" and one 32"
You can dedicate one 50" for mortise, tanons and other uses.
Similar to the above link with the "removed" comment.
Plenty of room for the repeaters and to leave the saw on the guide rail without the need to take it on and off every time.
Cut. Return the saw. Move the guide with the saw on it.
Thanks
YCF dino

Originally Posted by greenie512

Schtoo – I’m a “mashed up and re-glued” sorta fella, as I make speaker cabinets with MDF sheets … but I am trying to become a bit more of a serious and skilled woodworker, hence me handing out around you guy’s.
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The “slightly heated” discussions here urged me to go into the shed and try Dino’s guide to rip the long lengths off an 18mm sheet for it first real run – for my next set of horn loaded enclosures.
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I’ve got to admit, it was easy to set up and I got the most accurate cuts I’ve ever done.
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Like the idea of the course for Dino

Cheers - Phil

Phil.
try to connect a dust shield in front of the saw and add a vac. hose for the dust. You can get some ideas from here.
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/the-be...lection-system
Or you can cut outside with the small makita blower and a dust mask.
I just order the same Hitachi in order to modified the dust port and make it available. If anyone owns a Porter Cable, we give them the plastic dust shield with the system.
When you rout, go outside and use the small blower.
You get done 50% faster.
I like to try the new Triton saw. Any links?
Thanks
YCF dino

Dino – thanks, I didn’t realise there was a longer guide than the 50” one. MDF dust don’t you just hate it; I have a fan blowing on full power to move light stuff out through open double garage doors. Anything but I short cut and I wear a Triton respirator in enclosed spaces. But must get into the habit of doing this outdoors! I just hate cleaning the shed up.
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Cheers - Phil

Originally Posted by yowie

After reading the review, well, looking at the pretty pictures at any rate, I was reminded of a jig in my shed that I found on a yank site a few years ago.
You get to cut perfectly straight lines with your power saw over any length you like, and is very cheap and easy to make. Take about 5 minutes.

1. You need a length of wood or metal that is straight and the length of the jig you want to make (two jigs are handy, one about 1200mm and one about 2500mm). It also has to be no thicker than the distance between the foot and the bottom of the motor of your power saw. Can be any width but about 50mm is good.

2. You need a peice of board the same length as the last peice and at least as wide as the foot of your power saw plus the width of the peice from (1). I found about 12mm thick is good too.

3. Lay the peice from (1) ontop of the peice from (2) and flush with one edge and fix down (glues and screws).

4. With the foot of your power saw ontop of the wide peice, and running along the edge of the skinny peice, cut the edge off of the wide board.

5. Jig complete. Now you can clamp it to any board or what have you and get a perfectly straight cut every time.

Thats a really good idea. will have to try it.

Hello all and G'Day (I think that's how you say it ). Please be a litle understanding that Dino isn't a native speaker of English (or American or Aussie) and so some of the nuances of the differences between 'shilling' and just being excited about his product may not come across very well. While I know he want's to sell his product, I also believe he has come up with a system that he believes is better, safer, more accurate and less expensive than many other methods. So again, his 'shilling' is really just excitement.

THanks

Peter

Originally Posted by yowie

1. You need a length of wood or metal that is straight and the length of the jig you want to make (two jigs are handy, one about 1200mm and one about 2500mm). It also has to be no thicker than the distance between the foot and the bottom of the motor of your power saw. Can be any width but about 50mm is good.

When I made a jig like this I used 40 mm angle aluminium for the straight edge. You can pick it up pretty cheaply from Bunnings or home hardware places. The angle makes it resistant to flexing so the edge stays straight and it's easy to screw to the bottom part of the jig.