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Thread: HOW TO FIX SLIPPING PIPE CRAMPS
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15th February 2015, 01:18 PM #1
HOW TO FIX SLIPPING PIPE CRAMPS
HOW TO FIX SLIPPING PIPE CRAMPS
I don’t need to elaborate the feelings one gets when doing a large glue up when all the cramp wants to do is slide down the pipe.
This mod/repair was done many many years ago. I disassembled the sliding jaw and and cut off the “teeth” stamped into the clamping part. I had in amongst my stuff a broken Brobo Coldsaw Blade. I figured that if I brazed the portion of blade to replace the punched teeth the harder steel would bite into the pipe better.I first drew an out line so that the piece of blade when brazed would still fit into the clamping jaw housing.
I am no expert with a brazing torch but the flux coated rods made the job easy and quick. When cooled I was able to grind off some excess braze to make the jaw fit back into position.
Did it work??? Yep. Now because the Brobo blade is quite hard, when in use and put a lot of force on the threaded screw, The teeth can dig into the soft pipe. All I di periodically is run a file over the lumps and the cramp is ready to do its job on the next glue upJust do it!
Kind regards Rod
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15th February 2015, 01:48 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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This is a real issue with pipe clamps, I had a load of them and when I picked up some proper T bar clamps I put them round the side of the house and never used them again.Got rid of them recently for $50 for all nine of them and was glad to see the the back of them.
The previous owner had the same problem with some of them as holes had been drilled along the pipes to insert a pin throught to stop the sliding jaw slipping.Apart from suggesting that you could get replacement ends as they are not very expensive.
If you have any T bar clamps their effective length can be doubled by temporarilly bolting them together.
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15th February 2015, 02:58 PM #3
I made myself some long cramps using 32mm RHS. They are pinned in position and do work. I prefer to use the pipe cramps because they are light and quick to change the cramping length. The cheap pipe cramps that are available at the moment seem to have too soft a steel in the locking jaw. To drill and pin them as suggested is a way around the problem but defeats the quickness of a pipe cramp that does work as intended.
With my remedy, the effort to fix them is slight and the enjoyment to use them is replacedJust do it!
Kind regards Rod
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16th February 2015, 11:12 PM #4Intermediate Member
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I get all glued up, stick on the pipe clamp and wind away and then remember why I didn't use that clamp last time then I run down to the shed like a mad headless chook, reach for the grinder, flick it on and peck away at the bit where I want the jaw to sit and then rush back and the jaws grip well. Eventually I guess the whole pipe will be covered in grinder marks and it will double as a huge rasp.
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16th February 2015, 11:34 PM #5.
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The pipe clamps that use the 3 slanted circular locking rings seem to be much less likely to slip that the ones with the small teeth.
Like these http://www.carbatec.com.au/rockler-s...e-clamp_c21943
Maybe its because they lock on two sides of the pipe?
I've had some of these for about 7 years and they work just as well as when I first got them.
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17th February 2015, 06:48 AM #6rrich Guest
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17th February 2015, 08:31 AM #7Senior Member
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My solution is to drill holes through the pipes at approximately 50mm intervals and use 4" nails as the pins. I have done this with a few of the pipe clamps I have and it works very effectively.
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