Thread: Frame and Panel Doors

Yes Scooter,

I've copped a bit of flack about the mug-shot, its all in good fun though isn't it?

I bought a 15/16" (6mm) slot cutter and it gives a perfect fit using it flat on the table. I tested using it for cutting the tenons as well using the sliding fence gizmo on the Triton (alas now GMC) router table. I realise now that the two sholders must be the exact same height and 90?, any tips?

Originally Posted by Graham Sands

I've copped a bit of flack about the mug-shot, its all in good fun though isn't it?

Not unless you take that wig off it isn't

Don't worry about scooter and Gumby, they're both as bald as badgers bums, Iain the hirstute

Graham, I am also looking at making doors for all of my newly renovated kitchen, I was planning on using sheets of mdf with Tassie Oak veneer, I was just going to edge band it with iron on veneer, but something always held me back (would hate to do a crappy job of the edging)

I like the look of your doors, any chance you could post pics of the finished product.

Waiting in anticipation.

Greyham,
Here are a couple of snaps of one carcass which I haven't finished yet. Its 19mm TasOak venered MDF with 19mm TasOak edge strips. I was fortunate enough to match the lightness of the solid TasOak to the veneer.

Not having spraying facilities and wanting the timber colour to stay as light as possible I brush finished with water based Estapol prior assembly.

I used the same material for some cupboards except I used four coats of Neils Hard Shellac diluted 10:1 brushed on.
Came up well.

Progress photos...

Originally Posted by Graham Sands

Yes Scooter,

I've copped a bit of flack about the mug-shot, its all in good fun though isn't it?

I bought a 15/16" (6mm) slot cutter and it gives a perfect fit using it flat on the table. I tested using it for cutting the tenons as well using the sliding fence gizmo on the Triton (alas now GMC) router table. I realise now that the two sholders must be the exact same height and 90?, any tips?

Dude, 15/16" is 24 mm, not 6mm.

BTW, the pics look awesome! What method did you use? The router slotter? Were you happy with the results?

Graham, Just in time for a project we have in mind so pardon me for stealing yours and others ideas. Doors look great and son has a kitchen project coming up which was mentioned recently. Good one Graham, absolutely super doors and craftmanship

Kind regards

Mike

My mistake SHB 15/64 (5.93mm)

I used this slot cutter (having bought it), however, I wished I'd used the saw as Bat and Gordon suggested because it was really tricky infact impossible to get the slot centred with the sticky Triton router height adjuster. I can hand plane to fix.

After failing to get the tenon shoulders accurate with the router table I used the saw set to cheek face depth with sled and stop as shown in photo then routed the cheek faces.

The frames went together beautifully, flat as a pancake, I was so pleased. I don't think I'll glue in the panels. I'm sure the doors will be stong enough and there's less chance of getting glue where I don't want it.

Originally Posted by Graham Sands

infact impossible to get the slot centred with the sticky Triton router height adjuster. .

have you removed the plunge spring as suggested ? Then blow it out, give it a spray of WD40 and no more sticky adjustment.

Yes, I removed the spring. I wrote to Triton complaining about the stickyness, no repy.

Thanks for the tip Gumby, I'll give it a spray tonight, looking forward to easy height adjustment. Will post tomorrow.

Originally Posted by Graham Sands

Yes, I removed the spring. I wrote to Triton complaining about the stickyness, no repy.

Thanks for the tip Gumby, I'll give it a spray tonight, looking forward to easy height adjustment. Will post tomorrow.

Make sure you get all the dust out first. It's amazing how much gets in there .

The doors are coming up alright Graham.
I thought I'd add to your picture...