Thread: How do i handle rust on my table saw ?

Originally Posted by Gumby

I went out to the garage a few weeks back to find that my son had deposited his wet raincoat on my jointer ...

What did you do with the body?

Ive had some good sucess. I got a small brass wire wheel (1" dia) & am using it at a low speed in the cordless drill followed with some 800 wet & dry. I will give her a good polish once i finish. Its a mongrel job square inch by square inch but the completed bits with a shiny surface are just so damned nice to look at.

Has no-one considered a basic rust converter? I can't remember the exact chemical reaction but it converts rust (Iron Oxide) into an inert compound (Iron Phosphate?) which wont rust again.

Get the worst off with a wire brush, perhaps a quick once over with wet & dry to smooth the surface over, hit it with rust converter, then it's ready for a sealing coat of any oil/water based paint you like. I've used clear emamel pressure packs on cast iron and steel surfaces before and it's extremely easy to polish up and wax if necessary.

Or you could forget the paint idea and just put a natural wax down after the rust converter.

Here is more information on rust and how to treat it than you ever wanted to know!

A rust converter will leave a grey surface which you may not want. That said Corro-dip has had a good press.

Thanks Fred,
I've copied and pasted that entire article into a word document for future reference.
My Jointer and Table Saw look shocking at the moment since they've been in storage. I've certainly got some work cut out for myself bringing them back.
Might have to take some before and after photos
Cheers
Max

Originally Posted by kman-oz

Has no-one considered a basic rust converter? I can't remember the exact chemical reaction but it converts rust (Iron Oxide) into an inert compound (Iron Phosphate?) which wont rust again.

Get the worst off with a wire brush, perhaps a quick once over with wet & dry to smooth the surface over, hit it with rust converter, then it's ready for a sealing coat of any oil/water based paint you like. I've used clear emamel pressure packs on cast iron and steel surfaces before and it's extremely easy to polish up and wax if necessary.

Or you could forget the paint idea and just put a natural wax down after the rust converter.

Thats an idea...an old bloke once told me that he sold a lot of Oxalic Acid to the people that transport new cars on rail. I asked why & he said that metal comes off the trains brakes & wheels in very fine slithers & settles on the cars & will cause rust spots on the paint so they give them a light spray with oxalic acid prior to transport. I cant prove this info at all but he seemed to know what he was talking about.

Originally Posted by mick101

Well i have about 1/5th done by hand with an industrial scoring pad & lanotec. Man is that hard going on old elbow joints !

The factory mill marks are there nice & clean so the rust isnt as bad as i first though when i got it home. I'll post some pics tomorrow...i bet it will scare the hell out of any wood worker to see a saw get let go like this.

Before i try the fine sander option or the 'more elbow grease' method i was wondering if i can move most of it first with my 4" angle grinder & a wire wheel on it. If i dont concentrate on one spot too long (and create heat) will that be ok ?

BTW thanks heaps everyone. Its nice to find a forum where help is readily on hand for newbies

You promised you'd post photos yesterday - what happened?

Originally Posted by Bob38S

Varnish? - more detail please.

or floor wax?


Had some problems with rust on my jointer a while back [was previously coated with Silver Glide from C/tec] - green scotchbrite pad and Metal Glanz from Felder - no real effort required - just a little concerned the next time I need to use the jointer that I don't remove it all and then have to put a post in the Finishing thread

- "What happened here and how do I fix it?"

I believe that the Felder Silber Gleit can be used and does not need to be removed before you use the machine as there is nothing in it to affect finishing - Can anyone confirm this?

Regards,
Bob

i coat them with a thin coat of a two pot mix floor varnish (coats sompthing or other) it seals out the water, sap and air and stops it from rusting.

I've heard of Oxalic Acid, but the stuff I'm thinking of I'm almost certain is phosphor based. Something to do with being a good under primer for paints and being reasonably durable providing it's not coated with other highly reactive elements like chromium.

I'll look it up and post back.

Originally Posted by Just George

You promised you'd post photos yesterday - what happened?

Yeah sorry 'bout that...ive got some massive camera gear & it takes me a bit to stop doing what im doing & cart it all downstairs.

I think i should have said...a 'lot' of rust on my new table. You can see why i bailed on the hand option.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16083344@N00/670203544/


This is a magnified view of the worst area cleaned up.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1608334...n/photostream/


At the end of the day...a lot more work & ive got a saw that will cut timber. I will completely finish prior to using it..dont worry.

(blade cover is raised up out of the shot)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1608334...n/photostream/

Originally Posted by kman-oz

I've heard of Oxalic Acid, but the stuff I'm thinking of I'm almost certain is phosphor based. Something to do with being a good under primer for paints and being reasonably durable providing it's not coated with other highly reactive elements like chromium.

I'll look it up and post back.

Tks mate...i have taken some advice about & if i soak the rust for a few hours with lanotec first ..it makes the rust come off much easier with a scraper & then small brass wheel in the cordless.

Crikey , you weren't kidding about the rust, that's some serious rust there

Originally Posted by djstimber

Crikey , you weren't kidding about the rust, that's some serious rust there

Yeah...its done stuff all work ..just left under a thick plastic sheet outside so i suppose it got a lot of condensation.

I will get it nice again. I am a persistant bugger if nothing else.