Thread: How do I put a mattock head on a new handle?

If the Mattock head and the handle are a good fit when you drop the head over the handle it should be a tight fit with a about 1" of the handle sticking out of the head.

If it isn't either the handle or the mattock head has the wrong taper on either one. A least the handle should be able to be shaped with say a rasp so the handle is a tight fit. Get some crayon and rub it on the inside of the mattock head and see where it is touching and just rasp of the high spots on the handle until it is a nice tight fit.

I don't know what type of mattock head you have got but normally they are made with a taper that tightens on the tapered handle and no wedges are required. Just tap the head to tighten and then the act of swinging the tool will ensure it stays on the handle. They will sometimes move a little and if it is a concern to you I have heard soaking the end of the handle will tighten the head. Good luck
Regards
Bob W

If its a new head ie made in china then have a look and ensure there are on casting ridges at the top middle or bottom of the internal taper
otherwise as already stated take the handle by the bottom of the grip and bank the other end on a hard surface and the weight of the head should drive it firmly onto the taper

I recommend a wooden wedge (hardwood) glued with epoxy: solid as a rock. Steel wedges (or no-wedge) always seem to work loose. Do the matching taper thing beforehand, too.

give the handle a dab of linseed oil and turps 70/30 ratio let it soak in and it should swell the wood up a bit,the mattock head should fit snug on

Would a wedge work on a mattock handle? The taper runs the opposite way to that on a hammer or axe and I would have thought the wedge would tend to push the head down the handle rather than hold it in place.

If you're worried about the head sliding back down the handle when its raised above your head (and catching fingers:eek: ), try putting a small screw into the side of the handle just below the head. As stated, the swinging action should fix the head onto the taper but better to be safe than sorry!
I've also heard a patch of metal flyscreen wrapped around the tapered section will help bite into wood and metal.

Cheers,

I've never found a pick or matock handle that fitted the head properly straight out of the box.
a little shaving with a spoke shave & the sucker should fit nice & tight.
Handle fitting is a bit of a lost art.
I just slam the head down on the taper and shave away the brused wood till I have a nice even tight fit.

cheers

Hi
My disclaimer.. I AM NOT A HARDWARE STORE EXPERT. I'm simply sharing my thoughts & experiences. Readers should contact hardware store experts & assume all risks & liability for any damage or injuries to persons or property past present or future ect.
I MUST STRONGLY URGE ANYONE IN DOUBT ABOUT ANY HANDLE ON ANY TOOL CHECK WITH A PROFESSIONAL. My mattock is huge & heavy I would not want that handle coming loose. Sure the mattock head may not fly off due to a taper but a very remote possibility exists that it could slide / reposition itself on the handle during a swing & injure the user.
When bringing home wood in general allow the wood to acclimate (shrink or swell, change shape) a couple of days prior to cutting & assembly & get used to a new home & its new moisture level or dryness.
I agree with other posts.You might clean up any ragged ridges of metal left if any from molding or casting with a dremel, file sandpaper ect. If the handle is too large carefully shape it little by little be patient. If handle is too small with lots of light showing I personally would go to a hardware store & consult with a hardware man / specialist & find a handle that fits closest.As for wedges I got 2 answers probably because there are ovals handles & rectangle taper handles. Check first in person if any doubt exists. What applies to one tool may not apply to another. Depending on the tool itself & its application & design some have wedges others none. Fiberglass (adhesive) & solid or hollow metal handles for instance.
I found a similiar problem prior to purchasing a Premade mattock with gaps of light in the handle! Grrrr! So I went to a genuine smaller hardware store that is the place & purchased the head & handle seperately cost less than the mattock assembled. My mattock needed a #6 handle there are several sizes/shapes. I bought a name brand handle with a black plastic tapered end. In my case I was lucky & I carefully stood a couple 2 x4 s on end to support the thick portion of the head / eye & drove it home with a dead blow. When repairing wood hammer handles. I first take the hammer head to the store & check for light gaps / best fit. Once home if needed I carefully & uniformly for a balanced tool shave off a LITTLE wood at a time & GENTLY TAP the handle into the eye re- checking you will see either a smooth rubmark or indent. Carefully drive the handle out & sand or shave some more. WARNING if you see a tiny wood shaving form if youre most likely hammering the handle too hard into the eye & its still too tight & you may crack the tool. On hammers I drive a wooden wedge in & cut it flush with a hack saw blade & then drive the included wedges in diagonally. After achieving a good fit I sometimes goop the wood handle end with epoxy just prior to the final assembly this I feel this adds my final touch. Dont forget to let the glue fully cure. Some Mfgs use glue when manufacturing & assembling some but not all hammers. Why not me? A hardware store man said to the seal the end with 2 part epoxy to fill any hairline gaps (not major holes) & reduce vibration & reduce moisture that will eventually cause the head to loosen. The plastic handle end I believe will help prevent moisture changes in the wedge portion of standard handle. I sanded lightly & refinished the handle using outdoor polyurethane for even more moisture resistance. Yes I even plan to give it a coat of rustoleum as needed lol.
Good luck & take care.